Isiasis and Happier Times

August 4, 2020:

FDR:  “It is a date that will live in infamy”

Charles Dickens: It was the best of times, it was the worst of times

However you phrase it, it was one of the strangest weather days I’ve ever experienced: worst of times: Torrential rains, high winds,

and then: (best of times) sunshine! All within 8 hours or so…. despite being well prepared (see previous posting) using emergency supplies at 0530 doesn’t seem very wise.  So we toughed it out.  We watched Channel Four coverage, who said in the wrap-up that: “St. Mary’s was hit the hardest of any county in Maryland”..  Tough to argue with that… we had a Tornado on the ground toppling trees near Leonardtown, roads being washed out, etc.,…uncomfortably close!!

The mighty weather station recorded a 52 MPH gust, 5.13 inches of rain in a short period of time, easily outstripping similar statistics for the State.

Although now somewhat overshadowed, what I originally wanted to yak about was… hmm let me see…wait, I know!  Food!!   and..

Recently, there has been a spate of (I think) relatively new publications.  They are singular in subject, one called “Scotland”

Another for Britain”;

we have been a long time subscriber to “Ireland of the Welcomes”

Hey!  I know that Beverage

One of the pleasures (living in the past) we enjoy is remarking “We’ve been there” to several of the articles.  I’m SO glad we traveled when we did (self pity)

Anyway, one of them is devoted to a country who appreciates and produces some of the best (Okay, I used the “word”; it’s true!)) food and wine in the world.

Although most of them do have some pages devoted to Food, “France” has a whole section for food, wine, and cheese.  

I was particularly taken with a photo in the most recent issue (of "France")which kind of highlighted the city of light, and civility.  Upscale restaurants in our country are attracted (for the most part) to sleek, stainless steel, interiors for fine dining which is fine

But what could be more inviting than the (two star) dining room in Le Clarence hotel:

Opulence old world charm, gorgeous.  It had a review attached:

And not your yellowtail, I think it will set you back four figures, on top of the ($US) 153 up to 380 depending on how many courses you pick. 

More living in the past… most of our trips to France was to enjoy a week cruising the Canals of France on French Country Waterway’s barges, holding a max of 12 people.  They concentrate on local culture, food, and wine, and have a chef aboard.  The usual practice is to gather at some luxury hotel in Paris

Naturally one has to have sustenance for the journey to the barge.  In my case a wonderful Hendrick’s Martini and Gimlet for MFO

For Lunch, the feeder indulged in Parma Ham and greens

And MFO enjoyed Blini with smoked salmon…

As FOJTE says: “living well is the best revenge”.. so right on many counts!

We then bused to where we boarded the Barge and began the cruise. Here’s a typical lunch aboard while cruising

I didn’t mean to get this deep, but this is where we had dinner at “Bernard Loiseau”

The tragic story:

Le Relais Bernard Loiseau formerly La Côte d'Or is a Michelin Guide two-star French Restaurant.  The Michelin Guide bestowed a coveted 3-star in 1991, largely due to the fanatic attention to detail, frenetic work ethic and discerning palate of Loiseau. His fanatical attention to detail, propelled him to the top of his profession, and earned him a knowledgeable and loyal, but unforgiving and demanding clientele.

Eventually, there were rumors in Le Figaro that the Michelin Guide was planning to remove one of La Côte d'Or's three stars. Loiseau committed suicide in 2003.

No matter how many stars were attached, it was a lovely 

meal.

And many more courses, followed by “dessert”

And, of course as it should be in France:

What a wonderful world out there.  We had 4 or 5 more such voyages. memories, memories!

And OF course we were 

habillé pour le dîner

Bon Jour and Bon Appetit!

be safe.

Bon Jour

When I woke up this morning, I was not greeted by a friendly “Bon Jour!” and presented with a basket of croissants and other lovely pastries.

 

 

We had a relatively easy travel day yesterday, (reluctantly) leaving the barge in Tanlay at nine, arriving Paris at the Hotel Regina about noon, and a less than terrifying taxi drive to Charles de Gaulle, making our Air France flight around four, a LONG eight hour flight into the heat and humidity of Dulles, were met by our friend and boom! Here we are back to reality and Southern Maryland again.

We had a glorious trip through the northern part of Burgundy, through lovely French countryside

The food and wines were beyond description although I will try, and we saw some wonderful places.  Which, in the end proposed a problem for the Bottom Feeder.  Normally he would act like an engineer, yakking about things done serially, today we did this, drank that, tried these things, etc., but with the capriciousness of the internet connections (and the drain on time), I was pretty much unable to do my boring chronological accounting.  So I have a huge palette (or is that palate) to choose from:  Michelin Three Star dinner, Medieval towns and abbeys, cathedrals, forges, and so, so many good food experiences.   I think maybe what I will do is select some of the more memorable things and talk about them over the next few posts.

Today we’ll begin by maybe setting the backdrop for the whole tour to give you an idea of the “big picture”.  A term I much dislike, but there you are.

When you tell people you are going on a “barge” tour of the canals of France, many kind of roll their eyes, thinking of Spartan accommodations, plowing along on some stinking canal, eating things out of a tin.  NOTHING could be further from reality.  French Country Waterways has five routes that offer these tours through wine regions of France.  There’s a couple of trips through Burgundy, then there’s Champagne, Alsace, and the Loire Valley.  This was our third trip with them, having done the lower Burgundy and the Champagne trips prior to this one.  One always takes a risk in “going home again” fearing that the present experience will be colored by the previous ones.  Well, this one lived up and maybe surpassed the other two.

The “Barge” itself

Is quite long and divided into three major parts with cabins below, accommodating (in our case) 12 people.  There is that outside covered porch, then a “salon”

Which contains a sitting area and the all important bar (nicely stocked with premium liquors and aperitifs) and then behind that is the room where lunch and dinner are served

And behind that is a "kitchen" area

Which I suppose might properly be termed a galley.  But what comes out of that small area is truly amazing.  All done by the Chef, Tadek, who is a kitchen staff of one.  Each day lunch included four salads,

An entrée generally plated before us (glazing the Turbot)

And of course three cheeses (more to come on that).

Dinners (this Foie Gras at the Captain's dinner)

Which also included desserts

Always at least two wines (also more to come on that).

 

 

And as long time readers will know I often say that food is but one dimension, and others are supplied by the people you enjoy the meal with.  We were fortunate that we shared the voyage with five other couples that were a pleasure to meet and spend the week with.  Varied backgrounds and home ports (Australia, Washington State, California, Georgia, New York, etc.,) we all enjoyed finding out about each other and hopefully will touch base from time to time.

And we were further fortunate to have a wonderful crew to take care of us, steer the boat (not an easy task), get the bikes, clean the rooms, serve the food and tell us about it.  And the Captain, Matthew, was especially fun to be with.  He shows his British background with a great wit and has a tremendous knowledge about the wine, the places and so forth.

So in the days to come we’ll revisit some of the places like the Michelin Three Star, historical sites, vineyards, and food, food, food!

And of course you should have no doubts that we were all
DFD