Thursday, October 8, 2009

Road Trippin'...

October 8, 2009 Escanaba, MI, 43 degrees, cloudy

LaCrosse is still one of the largest cities on the western side of the state of Wisconsin. Important in the mid 19th century, and yes, it was named primarily for a game the Indians played here. Like many “old” small cities, there are really two cities. There is the “modern” side with K-Marts, Home Depots, Barnes and Nobles, and all the formula places of the modern day malls, with Caribou Coffees, and other attributes of current society. But there is also a historical side, where once fashionable, stately homes adorned quiet streets. With the move for MFO’s mom to a “facility” which, although recently constructed, is located in the older part of town. During recent visits, MFO discovered a little motel still surviving from the mid-fifties.. So, since most of our reason for visiting WI (besides the pretty drive) was centered on “Mom”, MFO reserved us for three nights. At first, I had apprehensions, but in the end, everything was “just right”







Built in the 50’s, nothing has changed much except the owners. Instead of uniformed hirelings, you deal with the actual owners. They turned out to be very considerate and helpful (I’m back on the internet, see). In our room not many walls were parallel reflecting the 50’s, but as the sign says it was very clean, had a nice TV (with the golf channel) and had all the amenities (remember having one handle for cold and another for hot in the shower instead of that balky un-adjustable lever so prevalent these days). The price was inviting, and by golly the room was clean, serviceable, and comfortable. It was “just right” for the old town LaCrosse.

Not far from the hotel was another find from MFO’s previous visits, the Hungry Peddler





It was just up the street from the Motel. Once inside the doors you time travel back to earlier times in Wisconsin. There are hooks for your coats, and you can either turn left into the bar, or right into the dining room. What a great bar. One of those that has a shelf over the bar with a million bottles and cans, a back bar equally stocked, all dark wood. There was a prominent poster for Korbel Brandy extolling the fans of; “Old Fashioneds and Fish Fries”. The dining room is all dark paneled, with fading pictures of faded people and times, some newspaper articles, old sports teams, and other memorabilia. The ceiling was at first glance leaded glass, but at second is plastic laminate in that form. Suspended from the ceiling there were spinning devices that at first appeared to be tires, but were in fact a fan. Tables were set with (unwrapped) silver business end down in mugs with a picture of the restaurant. You are seated (in order to maintain control) by a lady that hands you the breakfast menu. Yup, it’s a single sheet with selections on the front and back. All the items you could want including their “famous eggs benedict”, corned beef or prime rib hash, omelets, pancakes, steaks. On the back is the menu for “KOS” which turns out to be Kids Over Sixty, i.e., smaller portions. Next time, that’s us.

But what was really great was the clientele. Most were eligible for the KOS menu, although it wasn’t uniformly selected. Every morning there were tables of “ladies who breakfast”, along with gentlemen in various forms of working or hunting garb (which, in this case WAS DF(B)). But, everybody knew everybody. In that wonderful Wisconsin accent: “How are ya taday, Ralph?”, “oh fine fer sure”. If I had a nickel for every “yeah” I heard we could have eaten for free. “Did ya hear we might be gettin’ snow Sunday? Oh gosh, yeah”. If you’ve ever heard Prairie Home Companion, you’ve pretty much heard it. Everyone was so friendly, and I suspect the same crowd does this pretty much every morning.

The food was not memorable, but portions were huge and on the three occasions we were there, our food hit the table an average of five minutes after ordering. Scrambled eggs were in strips, sort of like sliced up omelets, the hash served with a healthy crust, the eggs just not runny, and I was even asked how I wanted my bacon cooked! How “right” is that? The serving ladies seemed to have a third arm with a coffee pot attached at all times. Water re-filled continuously without asking. After our three visits, we were invited to “Stop by, won’cha” when we return at Christmas. Oh, the “specials” for breakfast on one of those multi colored black neon boards were “mid-western or Brat Omelet”. At another table I overheard the description for the brat omelet as “cheese, sauerkraut, and brats, ya know”. Holy cow.

La Crosse is really a nice town. Go into Qullins (a local grocery) or the A-1 Hardware (multiple trips for Grammas mods to the apartment), or any store and you find helpful, friendly help. Everybody seems, well, just “nice”. We’ve enjoyed every one of our visits over the years.

what a town





After leaving La Crosse yesterday (Wednesday) we finally were able to shun the interstates and drove across mid Wisconsin from La Crosse to Marinette on “back roads”. What a treat. The color was spectacular, the roads empty (except for that little red mustang which I will omit in interest of your reading time), with small towns here and there, but mostly national forest. We took route 64 from Merrill to Marinette and found it was “cranberry country”. We saw several bogs and also the “harvest”








Besides the cranberries (there was an Ocean Spray facility), there were also trucks and trucks of potatoes..wisconsin, not idaho!!


After hitting Marinette and Lake Michigan, we traveled north to the current location of Escanaba, Michigan, where last night we had our first “dining” experience as we were

DFD

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Catching up is hard to do....

October 6, 2009 – LaCrosse, WI; 47 degrees and rain

So you have this vision that you’ll start the a lovely journey, seeing wonderful things, take some creative photos, and provide insightful comments on the passing scene. Then, out of the blue the demons in the computer want to know “what’s the device code?” before it will open the portals of the internet so you can connect to the place where you can share your experiences. What works fine on Saturday night in Indiana is inoperative on Monday morning in Wisconsin, and a day was lost in (thanks to several helping hands) getting back on the air.. Also thanks to my Southern Maryland Blog Support backup for the heads up..

The Journey Begins:

After attending a social event on Friday evening, getting going early Saturday was not in the cards. And, with all those little “Did you get the….”; “Where’s the damn…..”; “how about ….”; and all that stuff, it was mid-morning when we were finally what we considered “ready”. So, with Lattes in the cups, gas in the tank, and bags in the back, the Momster pointed north to begin the first day. Our objective was Richmond, Indiana, the usual layover on the way to Wisconsin. The beltway was negotiated with relatively little issues (thank you Wilson Bridge Construction) and after a while we exited the cities and began enjoying the landscape instead of cement. A great time of year to travel as you can see the changing hues from summer green to gentle beiges, soft browns, muted colors, with the occasional punctuation of a golden or red maple. Of course this was tempered by also watching the back end of 18 wheelers (How’s My Driving?....), the tailgaters, right passers, and all those endearing traits of “other” drivers. I must admit there was a paucity of North Caroliners this time. Whoa – hold it there, we’re out here for esthetics, not traffic aggravations. And so, turning back to the countryside we enjoyed the barns of different construction styles and adornments (we did see an original Mail Pouch). That being said, somewhere along the way, the “are we there yet?” syndrome starts to creep in as white line fever starts to take its toll. So, after a rather grueling 580 miles, we arrived at our spacious lodgings for the evening:




Along with it’s five star dining opportunities




Due to the late hour of arrival, courtesy of the late hour of departure, we didn’t DF or even consider Dining. Crackers and a bottle of Pine Ridge Viognier/Chenin Blanc sufficed to accompany various football games. The next morning, a little better start but still a long road ahead. Plying across Indiana through a bustling Indianapolis preparing for the Colt’s game and up toward the windy city on I65. It’s an interesting thing about travel; there are always stretches of road that seem to be endless. I65 between Indy and Chicago is one of them. Drive two hours. Not a third of the way. Two more – on and on. Not much to see except flat land, trucks, and cars. And for relief there is flat land, trucks, and cars.

Finally, you start the arduous task of negotiating yourself through Chicago. Fortunately we had a Navigation System on board:



To help us through the maze of “XXXX expressway”, heaven forbid you should use numbers, and pausing along the way to keep the economy going.



We must have gone through at least 10(?) of those toll booths, and not one gave us any eye contact or a “thank you”. With a little sign that says “Customer service is our goal!” right over their sullen heads.

Eventually the city of big shoulders is left behind and you approach the northern end of the state



And eventually the objective is in hand –



Gradually the fields of soy and corn give way to rolling countryside with little lakes, more conifers and (surprisingly) a surfeit of fall color but still a more interesting pallet. The route north of Madison to Portage to Tomah is another one of those “it never ends” stretches, although there are some interesting signs extolling the selections of cheeses and sausages at various roadside stops. By this time we were deep into the “are we there yet” mode and the trusty Canon remained bagged. Finally, after 9 hours and 540 miles we arrived at La Crosse to see MFO’s sister and their mother.

At that point and hour, anything but “eating” was not considered, so I sort of steered us into getting take out from Culvers, home of the Butterburger. Somehow, I had missed one of these and this was a good opportunity. So, off we went to one of the nearby outlets. The general concept turns out to be: go to the counter and order, receive a number tag and either go sit down for delivery or wait for the “to go” bag. Over the counter hangs a huge menu board with a (to me) confusing amount of things to choose. You can “assemble your own basket”, get pre-chosen meals, order anything individually, choose your regular or “premium” sides (onion rings are premium), with anything from fries to slaw to green beans to “Cheese Curds” – we’re in Wisconsin, remember?. And, you’re not limited to ground beef and chicken either. There’s roast beef, pork, chili, and hot dogs as well. That bewildering amount of decisions to me made resulted in a crowd of folks standing around (including us) trying to devise an order. Oh, did I mention there is also a selection of drinks from soda to soft ice cream to malts and shakes. It was interesting to note the word “concrete” was floating around. So finally we put together an order, relayed it to the nice young man and eventually left with a bag. Naturally I had to have a single (doubles are available) butterburger, and accompanied it with premium onion rings and a shake.



Does Ted Drewe’s know this is going on?

Pictures 14 and 15 of food..


Other selections taken were a pork loin (fried) and a pulled roast beef. All had to be encased in rolls, apparently. I have not done extensive research (as is my norm) but I never saw any indication what makes it a “butterburger”. I would have to say, that although they do have a wider array of food available, it doesn’t stand above its competitors. Close my eyes, and a butterburger would be indistinguishable from a quarter pounder (well, maybe different condiments) Oh, I don’t know (or maybe don’t want to) know how that little piece of cheese got on top of the bun. It is left for clarity, and wonderment.

Okay, that’s a catch-up, there’s much more to tell about time tripping in LaCrosse, but that will wait till tomorrow..Due to the necessity of visiting “Mom”, who doesn’t get out much anymore, we’re eating in more than out.. so we’re not having to

DFD

Monday, October 5, 2009

Travel is ALWAYS an Adventure.

Greetings my fellow "Bottom Feeders",
This is Southern Maryland Blog Support here, I've been asked to pass along a quick message from THE Feeder. He is busy amassing quite a bit of research on the "Pax/Wisconsin/Michigan Corridor" but unfortunately is having minor computer technical issues at the moment and unable to post. (unfortunately I'm currently unable to provide assistance due to my temporary overseas location). I'm sure that these minor computer problems will be resolved shortly and your beloved feeder will be back to regale you with stories of the road. Thanks for your understand and patience!
Cheers,
SoMd-BS

{and while he's gone if you don't "DFD" I'll never tell ;-> }

Friday, October 2, 2009

Jack, Willie, and us...

We’re readying to be “on the road”. Tomorrow we’ll start our road trip to Michigan to join up for our 50th(!!) high school class reunion. How can this happen? - where does that time go? We are not that old. Our path to Michigan is via Wisconsin, through the upper peninsula of Michigan before arriving in East Lansing. I have done some research on the restaurant scene and I hope to have good reports. I have many boyhood memories of the upper edge of Michigan. I hope to re-visit (bearing in mind what Tom Wolfe says) some of those haunts, and maybe have some good meals along the way. Perch, whitefish, and walleye are calling.

Meanwhile, the “best” monster is alive and well. The latest issue of the St. Louis Magazine (hey, we keep in touch) is headlining “the Best new restaurants in St. Louis”, all 15 of them. While some are new, some have faded. The old Blue Water Grill shuttered. The new Washingtonian has the “Best of Annapolis”. I can’t make a dent. What the hell is “best”? Who says what's “best”? for who? Anyway, I will give them credit; they also highlight the “restaurant of the year” in St. Louis. I was pleased to see that it was the humble “Harvest”, tucked on Big Bend Boulevard in Richmond Heights. There are many more glitzy, high end, fusion, places in STL, but the little Harvest that’s next to Hank’s Cheese cakes has been there a good long time. I have dined there infrequently, but I don’t recall a single bad experience. They based their award on consistency. Good for them. It is, after all, about consistency. You can exist on the fad for a couple of years with cute stuff, but to stay in business for 14 years, you have to do something right. Good for them. The chef there is the brother of a kid I coached on the Clayton hockey team…

Well open suitcases await contents, camera and computer gear need to be rounded up and carefully packed, mail stopped, paper pickup arranged for and all those million little details that need to be taken care of before hitting the road.

If we were here this weekend, we’d have to choose between the Wine Fest at Sotterley, the Blessing of the Fleet down at Colton’s point and all the million other things there is nothing to do here in St. Mary’s County.

Will try to stay in cyberspace and update all the thrilling adventures that a road trip always provides. And you can be sure that our packing included the necessities for

DFD

PS: Happy Birthday MFO, Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi, and HoGo

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Over Easy...

As the weather cools, the system needs a bit more fuel in the morning to start the machinery for the days challenges. I had the opportunity to stoke the furnace yesterday morning at Linda’s, the venerable…. hmmmm, café, diner, dive, greasy spoon, (pick one) here in Lexington Park. It’s long been a gathering place for local “regulars”, characters, and notables as well as a popular luncheon spot for more professional people from “the base”. They do serve dinner, but I have never partaken of that meal.

As loyal long time readers know, I am a big fan of places that fall into the “just right” category (as in St. James Pub for lunch). I really think that maybe Linda’s deserves that accolade for breakfast. Yesterday I arrived at probably past peak hours, but there were still several tables occupied. One was a group of what looked like golfers, attired in sporty sweaters, pull over’s, and sleeveless things with script on them. Another contained a slightly disheveled elderly mother and daughter, there was a family with little kids getting a treat. At one point a gentlemen arrived with an open flannel shirt and one of those key chain things that looped below his knee, coming back up to a leather pouch tucked into well worn jeans. He went directly to the counter for a china mug of coffee..My companion observed I just missed the (almost legendary) J. Frank Raley, a daily customer. The paneled walls are covered with kitschy stuff, paper place mats with those little ads on them, rolled up tools (knife and fork). Smells of bacon and grease pervade the air, a real breakfast treat. The staff joins in the theme as some look like they just got out of bed and raced to work as well. Linda herself was ensconced in the kitchen at the flat top busily turning out the food. As a parallel with SJP, white boards are everywhere with specials listed by number (just right). The menu is still a large laminated list of the usual suspects.

Our table ordered a ham and cheese omelet, and I had the corned beef hash, with two eggs “how would you like those?” over, please. “easy or medium”, medium please. “toast or muffins?” toast, please. “white, wheat, or rye?”. Pencil busily recording selections on a green note pad. Just right. Cold beverages are served in thick plastic glasses of varying size. I was a little surprised at the length of time it took for our food to arrive, given eggs are usually pretty quick to be cooked, and probably piles bacon and other meats are kept on the grill, but anyway, arrive they did. Mine was on one of those thick oval china plates, the corned beef slightly inching its way toward the edge, the eggs a bit “off center” with the “over” side up, little pools of grease in the brown pockets. The hash was a combination of crunchy and creamy with some burned edges here and there. The eggs were the perfect consistency viscous without being runny. Great. The ham and cheese chunks of the omelet were trying their best to punch through the egg jacket, a real hearty dish. The potatoes along side were also charred on the edges, and were hunks, not those stupid little shredded things that sometimes appear as breakfast potatoes. The communal toast was served in a red plastic basket, with diagonally sliced pieces of bread lathered with that white stuff, probably applied by a brush. what else!

Everything was tasty and hot, service a bit spotty, like requiring some heavy eye contact to get a water glass refilled, but it’s all part of the show. The real deal breakfast package.

Later on in the day, as part of a little ceremony honoring some of the Jesuits who sold their land to the state, I was a hanger on for a little lunch at Café Des Artistes in Leonardtown. Was an interesting contrast from the breakfast experience as the clientele for lunch was markedly different. Neither set of diners would be comfortable if they switched venues. Have recently commented on CDA’s luncheon, so won’t do it again here. Was very good, with an excellent lentil(?) soup. The luncheon with the Jesuits was fun, they were a knowledgeable couple of guys, and I had to forgive one for being an alum of that school in South Bend. He did thank me for the Spartans gift of the football game a couple of weeks ago. We then adjourned to the Chapel Field at Historic St. Mary’s city to show them the restored brick chapel, and an excellent tour by Dr. Henry Miller. What a great place to live..

Of course, they had no issues with
DF(L)