"The Table" is Set?

Alert readers might note there has been a little blogging gap this week, as the BottomFeeder had issues with the first part of his nom de plume, which led to lack of partaking of the latter, sort of taking up time....But, I’m happy to report that

Last night we joined several good neighbors and friends for dinner at La Tabella, the most recent occupant trying to make an a la carte restaurant out of the retirement center dining room in Wildewood. As you might guess, the menu is sort of classic Italian, which is sorely needed in our area, so kudos to them opening in the face of the never ending (disgusting) breadsticks and salad bowls of OG. Quick read is that although they may not be really “open” yet, there is promise shown that would easily make me want to favor them over the OG. As with any new restaurant venture, there are a few opportunities for improvement, but that comes with time. The good news is that the food shows a lot of promise.

Before proceeding, I know that several of our party will be reading this, and as usual I point out that the BottomFeeder tries to look dispassionately at the restaurant, not to affect what was a great evening with friends, which after all, is what really matters.

So, when I learned that we would be visiting the “new” restaurant, the old “expectations” thing went through my head…

Their Givens:
One, The space was created as a retirement center dining room, NOT a restaurant.
Two, You (at least I) can’t find the damn place at night. Wildewood is the darkest place I’ve ever been.

So I can’t really hold that against the new occupants, they have accepted those terms. They have, however, addressed “given” number one to some extent in that a row of planters now creates sort of a “bar” area, which has three (!) sizeable flat screens on the walls. They are in full view of the bar area of course, but they are also in full view of the dining area. Maybe taller plants would help.

Anyway, I was a bit late after the usual “ooops! There it was!” (“given” number two) and a U-turn to get back to the parking lot. As a result, most of our party was already seated, so I missed the recitation of any off menu items, and I don’t know if there was a “Hi I’m…” start. They were in the midst of drink orders. Some chose wine from the wine list, and our server pointed out a wine she had tried and really liked. You know what I think of that. Others ordered cocktails and I of course levied the drink test.

Great conversation filled what was a pretty long time between ordering drinks and their delivery, but some fairly tasty bread helped (eventually with olive oil). When the drinks arrived, all was well except a Martini that was supposed to be on rocks arrived “up”. My DMWATOTR drink was well made to my order and of good size, and a nice value at $6. The menu presents a myriad of choices, with a rather large column devoted to “pasta” (17 options including baked and stuffed – alfredo, carbonara, lasagnette (?), all your favorites) and 2 steak and 2 seafood choices. The other side of the menu is devoted to “Specialities” (I think there must be a better term) which contains various preparations of chicken, veal, shrimp, along with seared scallops and crab cakes “Southern Maryland Style” – whatever that is. Most dishes come with a side salad. I am pleased to report that they have vegetarian options and even a note that says they will do Gluten Free upon request. Good for them..

Between the 8 of us a good variety of things got ordered. I of course tried my benchmark Veal Piccata, while others chose Veal Parmesan, Chicken Ravioli, with one stuffed rockfish and a request for just linguine with olive oil and light garlic.

I never know when to talk about the service--maybe now. All the servers are dressed in black, were very courteous, and eager to please. Water glasses were nicely attended to. If I had to nit on something, (which I always do), I would ask that servers refrain from recommending wine or dishes or commenting on my order. Don’t tell me I made a good order if you’re not prepared to tell me I’ve made a poor choice. And (maybe this is just once) I really don’t care to be referred to as “M’Dear”. And another pet peeve while I’m at it: when I use my (only) knife to butter the bread and eat the salad, I really don’t like it when they set it aside when clearing the salad. When I noticed this being done across the table, I purposely put my buttery knife in the salad bowl, and when she came to clear, she asked: “did you want to keep your knife?” and when I greeted that with silence, she said “I’ll get you another”. Kudos for that, it should be standard practice. Other than that, I couldn’t complain much, she did a pretty good job with a table of eight. The only other comment on “service” was that there were very long waits between drink order and delivery as well as food order and delivery.

Speaking of food, as I said that is what gives me hopes that they can make a go of this place despite the “givens”. It was generally very good. The green salads were crisp and fresh, with dressing on the side so you can have as much or as little as you like. Eventually the main courses arrived and for the most part were placed at the proper seat. There was a little gap between seven of the dishes and the simply prepared pasta, but it got there. Since I had Veal Piccata, I didn’t get a chance to taste the red sauce but everybody else liked it. My Piccata was quite good. The veal was tender, and although I would have cooked it a little more, as it wasn’t golden brown but still it was tasty. Everybody else was happy with the food. And for the most part there was LOTS of it. I had four pieces of veal each that would easily fit in the palm of your hand just about the right size, but they were perched on a huge mound of pasta. Kind of disproportional. It’s kind of tough to make a large serving of red pasta look really good on a white plate. Maybe a sprinkling of parsley would help, or if that’s all they’re going to plate, maybe a bowl would look more appropriate. Or perhaps a colored plate. When asked for some Parmesan cheese, we were brought a couple of little shaker top jars like you have in Pizza Joints, one with cheese and the other with crushed pepper.

Anyway, the food is the cornerstone of a restaurant, and I think they have a great start on that. You can fix “M’Dear”, replace silver, work with portions and presentations, but with good food to build on, I’m hopeful that it will be able to develop. Prices are affordable, and as I said portions currently are such that lunch the next day is pretty much assured. I think they’re trying hard, and I’ll go back in a few weeks to see if some of the growing pains are being eased. I will never “like” the space, but I will live with it. Meanwhile, go take a look. If going for dinner, you might want to punch the coordinates into your GPS to help with given two.

And, I’m happy to report that everybody we saw was acceptably

DFD

Leave the weather, then under it!

Our final (short) day in Chicago began with a nice breakfast buffet (okay, good for this application) in our spiffy hotel. After reluctantly prying ourselves from the palatial bathroom and after getting DFB (and DFT(ravel)) we joined what was left of the wedding party in a lovely room overlooking the winter wonderland..well, a parking lot with lots of snow in this case



It was a bright room with the usual “Stuff” for breakfast



With normal breakfast stuff, and nicely set “sides”



Besides the normal chafing dishes there was an ‘omelet” station



With your choice of----



I always enjoy omelet stations, because the preparation of the omelet varies from place to place. When making them at home, I prefer the classic (?) technique of letting the eggs “set” over heat, then adding the ingredients and rolling it onto the plate in a neat little roll. Of course I normally use a ten inch pan and these are maybe 8. These were made by first putting the egg mixture in the pan, and then adding the meats or vegetables, and gently swirling the mixture so everything was all mixed together. This was allowed to cook until the eggs got “done” and then if cheese was desired it was added. The whole thing was then tipped onto the plate an folded once, or not. Nothing wrong with this, tasted good and it’s always fun to watch.

Oh yeah, the best dish for breakfast? you just can't beat:



After good conversation and goodbyes, we all scattered to our various destinations. Of course the flutters are no different and since we were most of the way there, MFO decided she’d take the rent-a-racer and go north to visit Mom in Onalaska. I bummed a ride with our hosts and went to Midway. Fortunately, traffic was lite, and our driver knew a nicer way to approach Midway that didn’t quite give you the feeling you might be shot as when we used Cicero Ave.

Anyway, all those obstacles were crested and after the laborious trek through security (no full body scans nor patdowns) I arrived at the gate, eventually boarded the plane, quietly ate my peanuts, and after the usual interminable approach to BWI landed without incident.

And, e sincSouthwest Airlines didn’t lose my bag that flies free, another sardine can ride in the rental bus brought me to the Avis section of the rental barn, and the little board told me my car was in stall F43. In that stall rested some little bright yellow Pontiac product with a wing on the trunk. How prophetic it was painted yellow. How long has it been since you drove a car with no cruise control? Fun? You betcha!. And Hey! Why is it that when I turned the corner the turn signal is still clicking away? Because the damn thing doesn’t work! Manual on, manual off. All the way from BWI. Oh, and I don’t know if you’ve ever driven a car with that wing on the trunk, but it obscures the parking lights of any car behind you, so you think the car is inches from you. Or, it reflects overhead lights making you think a car is there that isn’t. Oh well, it probably improved my gas mileage at least .02%. Finally driving in the driveway to the digs, I discover there is no internal trunk release. So I get out, and after several increasingly hard thumb punches to the fob, the thing opens. Okay, finally home. So next day time to turn the Sunkist Kar back to Avis, I punch the “unlock” key on the fob. Nothing happens. Again. same. Okay, I’ll just use the key. A this point, apparently because the smarts in the car had not received an “unlock” signal it though it was being stolen when the door opened and the horn proceeded to bleat. Over and over. Fortunately the unlock tab must have taken because it stopped before the neighbors appeared. And, why do they EVER put gas on the right..

So there was sort of a sketchy conclusion to a great weekend in Chicago. And to top it all off, I must have picked up a bug, because now I’m sort of housebound…if you get my drift.

Right now I am DEFINITELY NOT

DFD, because there probably will be no D to DF today!

The Windy, check that....

the wind brought in some white stuff.... from our Hotel window:





Speaking of hotels, we're staying in a pretty spiffy one. Spiffy at our age means a great bathroom and this one is. we've stayed in hotel rooms smaller than this one!



separate little compartments for the "necessities"






and, get this! see that little dark square in the mirror the above? and that little black thing on the counter? it's a "remote". press "on" and guess what?






you got TV!! Gotta love that...

Anyway besides the great facilites, last night we had the Rehearsal dinner with very good passed apps INCLUDING Toasted Ravioli!!, class all around!!

now almost time to get DFW(edding).

more later

On the.....Air again

with apologies to Willy..

we're about to embark on a flying journey to the Windy City to attend a wedding. There are group events for a lot of the food so not sure there will be much opportunity explore other dining venues..should be a fun weekend..

will return to Pax on Sunday night, with MFO making a side excursion to visit Mom in LaCrosse. Can't make these things simple..

And I guess this weekend marks the beginning of the "holiday" season, or as I like to call it the "holicraze" season. Parties and open houses begin. If you attend, make sure you look over the buffet table past those supermarket cheese trays for genuine little home made gems..

okay that's MFO in the background urging me to quit...so off we go

packe to be

DFD and DFW

Easter Shore, Soul....

There is a difference between “Soul Food” and “Food for the Soul”. While the former refers to a particular cuisine, I think of the latter as something that remains with you for a long time, sort of as exemplified by my favorite quote from Thomas Keller:

"A good meal is the kind of journey that returns you to sources of pleasure you may have forgotten and takes you to places you haven’t been before"

Our final dinner in Easton was at the Bartlett Pear Inn (where we were staying). After our less than joyous return to Scossa the previous evening, I was wondering how a second meal at BPI would turn out. I needn’t have worried a minute.

Before starting on this little piece, I thought I better take a look at what I said after our first visit last May. You know what? I could cut and paste that description to characterize our meal on Thanksgiving Eve. Every little detail I mentioned from our first visit was repeated (crumbing the table, wine by the glass served from the bottle, etc.) and the food was still heavenly. The staff was courteous, Alice the Innkeeper made sure things were going smoothly; dishes were served at proper temperature and cleared appropriately. Our server immediately asked about a drink before ordering (no shilly shallying around with names), and we asked for the wine list. An interesting selection of wines, with varying countries of origin and grapes, and prices friendly for any budget. Anyway, MFO selected “Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare”, from that rascal Randall Graham, and I went for “the drink”. The bread arrived (which is brought in from a “friend” in a New York Bakery) in a silver basket and white napkin, warm and crispy with that wonderful butter topped with a sprinkle of Hawaiian Sea Salt. Soon followed by a silver tray containing the wine bottle, a glass, and a perfectly made Dry Manhattan (with that same knot-like lemon twist I had at Scossa! maybe a local tradition). Both pours were of good proportions. With the edges rounded a bit, we turned to the one page menu, still divided into that “Begin With; On to Entrees; and Essence A La Carte”. Which could be translated as Starters; Complete Plates (center of plate with sides); and single item dishes with a selection of sides available (at extra cost). I think you could throw a dart at the menu and not be disappointed ordering whatever it struck. Wherever possible local sources are used (Firefly Farms Goat Cheese), or at least farmer owned and operated farms (Creekstone Farms beef).

Anyway, MFO selected an off the menu cold smoked salmon over greens starter and the (Creekstone Farms) Grilled Hangar steak with Caramelized Shallots, and Béarnaise Sauce, and since I had the Steak Tartar starter last time, I switched to the other sucker dish, Pate de Campagne (Inn made), and the Hudson Valley Duck Leg Confit with Ribbons of Magret Breast, and Farmhouse Sauce. Learning from last time, we only ordered one order of the seductive fries (and ate what we couldn’t finish on the way home). As to the wine for dinner, although we had schlepped along a good bottle we thought we might use, we found out that the Talbot County Ordinances prevent “corkage”. Not a big deal if there is a good wine list..which there was. We selected a Washington State “Uriah” from Spring Valley Vineyards in Walla Walla. It was a blend of Merlot, Cab Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. And, although I hate to use the term, it did “pear” (pun intended) well with the duck and steak. A nice bottle.

All the food was delicious and nicely presented. For instance, my Confit turned out to be a little Napolean, constructed of circular layers of the duck meat separated with crunchy little discs of Lavosh. This was placed in the “upper right” of the plate, and the thinly slices strips of Duck Breast were fanned out from under it, sort of making a little shooting star. This was all served with the “farmhouse” sauce which was silky rich with vegetable flavor. What a great dish (“takes you to places you haven’t been before”). I could go on, but you get the idea.

One of the nice things about staying in a local B&B is the people you meet. At dinner, we were seated next to a couple (not a whole lot younger than us) who were taking “Mom” out to dinner. They obviously were friends with the Lloyds, who stopped by their table to chat (as they did most) about local stuff, it’s so nice to see community being connected by food. Another benefit was that I had a good chance to talk to (Chef) Jordan. One of the reasons the food is so good (besides his talents) is that he spent two years working in Citronelle with Michel Richard. He also spent some time in Les Pinasse in New York. That’s where you learn and practice this stuff. The next morning at breakfast (home made granola, wonderful pastries, local milk or yogurt, French press coffee), I asked him about the sauce for the duck. He said it was sometimes called Sauce Grabure (or “Garbage Sauce”) because it is made with “stuff from the garden”, and was a “simple little sauce”. He then proceeded to sort of go over the preparation of the “simple little sauce” (this is not accurate but you’ll get the idea): Roast whatever vegetables you have, carrots, onions, potatoes; cook the duck, render the fat, add the juices, reduce to a “jus”, puree the vegetables, add the jus, reduce some more, strain, finish with butter. (apologies to Jordan, I’m working from faulty memory here). But you get the idea. Why go to all that trouble? because it tastes like heaven! Like that Sauce Béarnaise . They make everything in the Inn and it shows. Everything is right and all the details are there. When we finally had to leave, he said next time we visit I could maybe spend some time with him in the kitchen… where’s my calendar??

So we finished our visit to Easton with that great meal. As readers will remember, I often end yakking about restaurants saying things like: “I will go back”, or, “I’ll try another visit sometime”. With the Bartlett Pear Inn, it’s: “I can’t wait to go back”. That’s what separates the good from the extraordinary. It’s just done right all around. They make you WANT to return. I have a friend who often uses the phrase: “the devil’s in the details!”, well sometimes the Angels are in the details..

And I don’t have to say

DFD