First of all, and most important, I hope everyone had an
enjoyable Christmas celebration. We certainly
did with FOJ’s both the “E” and the “Y” and their families. We had lovely food at both the Northern (STL –
The E), and Southern (Cape Girardeau – The Y) locations, with Christmas Eve at
the former and Christmas day at the latter.
You know I go various ways on FaceBook, but it was nice to see so many
pictures of families being together, often convening over food which is what it
is all about. On the other side of
FaceBook, whoever posted the video of how to gift wrap a cat should be ashamed. Let’s humiliate an animal for our silly
personal aggrandizement. Anyway the
Feeder wishes everyone a happy remainder of the Holiday period, except the egotistical
cat wrapper..
So anyway, most people know that St. Louis is heavily
populated by people with Italian heritage and is the home to several Italian
restaurants, including the (IMHO) flagship, Tony’s. We didn’t visit this trip, but through kind of
happenstance we visited three others. A
quick review of each is probably warranted.
And a reminder to any of the folks we shared the table with, I try to objectively
divorce looking at the restaurant experience from the enjoyment of being with
our friends regardless of the other stuff.
(sorry no photos for this edition)
Uno
On our first day here, we dropped in (announced) on some
friends we see fairly regularly when in STL.
I used to work here with him and have enjoyed watching their family grow
over the years to where their “little guys” have now become college and post
college “kids”. Amazing how that
happens. Anyway, a late afternoon visit
turned into a spur of the moment unplanned dinner with them to continue “catching
up”.. They live in “West County” and
suggested a relatively newly opened branch of Charlie Gitto’s near them in
Chesterfield. This installation has been
dubbed “Charlie Gitto’s From the Hill”. St.
Louisans will know that Gitto’s was a long time resident of “the Hill”, one of
many little “homey” places. They eventually
put a branch down town, and now herald a venue in fashionable West County. I would have to strain my failing memory to
recall the last visit we made to one of the others, but this newer “From the
Hill” seems to reflect the “fashionable” location in that it is filled with
wood and chrome fitted chairs. Although
we didn’t have reservations, we were seated easily. Our server let us know he would be “taking
care of us” right away. Sigh. Water glasses were filled immediately, and I don’t
think got more than one sip down all night with an arm extending to fill them
almost as soon as you put them down. Menus
were distributed, and a request had to be made for a wine list. Our table (of four) was one of many that what’s
his name had to “take care of” so there were some lapses. Barely a little conversation at the table
took place before he arrived with pad in hand and had to be called off. We had a great time chatting with our friends,
and eventually she suggested that we get some “T-Rav” (STL speak for the local
signature dish) which I thought was a good idea. We also got a couple of wines by the glass,
and eventually did consider the menu. I
guess it followed the National Standard for Italian food a separate paragraph
for each item, generally listed by protein (beef, chicken, veal, fish, etc.),
plus salads and soups. The traditional
dishes were there, although for some reason we call Veal Piccata “Veal Lemonata”
even though the description revealed a classic definition of the Piccata (sautéed
with white wine lemon sauce and capers).
Marsala and Parmigianino versions were available for both chicken and
Veal. Minestrone headed the “zuppa”
category. Anyway, the good and bad was
that all the expected dishes were available.
The only “off the menu” item offered was a Veal Stuffed Ravioli.
The T-Rav arrived (before the bread basket) and were really
very good. Table orders for entrees
included the Special Ravioli (MFO), Lasagna, and Chicken Spiedini. As for the Feeder, it was kind a
coincidence. The most recent issue of “Cooks
Illustrated” featured an article about “restaurant quality Chicken Saltimbocca*
(we wanted a simpler version with restaurant quality without… the usual Cook’s
Illustrated approach. Saltimbocca
translates something like “explodes in the mouth” and generally involves the protein
pounded thin, sautéed and topped with (also sautéed) spinach, prosciutto, and
cheeses and some sort of sauce. So I veered
away from the Veal Piccata (call it what you will) to see how they carried it
off. I also decided on their “Wedge”
salad as a change of pace from the standard green or Italian chopped salad. Fair enough.
Well, since we have two more places to visit yet, I’ll “cut
to the chase”. Since I don’t ever get
Saltimbocca anything, I am not sure I am a judge. But, I do know that sage shouldn’t be
bitter, but sweet. Also the sauce maybe
shouldn’t be an unattractive muddy brown, and the chicken could be tender, and
the cheese might be a little less time under the heat lamp. Needless to say, I didn’t much enjoy the
dish. Again, maybe it was my lack of
experience. Everybody else seemed to enjoy
theirs, although MFO’s ravioli arrived in a soup like dish swimming in sauce,
not what I expected.
Oh, since I’m complaining, one more thing. I have to confess that I am a “slow eater”.
and tend to linger over my dish. My
friend is (by comparison) a “fast eater” and had finished his plate when mine
was maybe a little less than half consumed.
The very MINUTE his fork hit the plate, a minion arrived at the table
with one hand on the plate “are you through with this sir?” dragging it toward
him. Well, yes and no. He was finished,
but the table wasn’t. I know there are
various schools of thought about this, do you want other diners to feel they
should “hurry up” or do you want the fast guy to sit and look at an empty plate
for a while, as the rest of us finish. I
much prefer the clear the table when the last person finishes, but I can
understand another viewpoint.
Anyway, although we had a great time finding out what we had
been doing since last year, (IMHO) the food didn’t do much to enhance the
experience. I would like a chance to
visit one of the longer occupied places.
Due
The next day, we had an appointment with our financial
advisor, to make sure the Flutters can still gallivant around the British
Isles, Grand Caymans and so forth. We
always schedule about an eleven AM appointment, and although this is a bit over
simplified, the meeting usually progresses something like this: “Well things seem to be going well, the
growth in the account is about matching your withdrawals” a couple of
generalities about the Market, and “Let’s
go to lunch”. Our advisor has a good
palate, and does get around to local restaurants a lot. So after a bit of
discussion he suggested Remi’s Kitchen & Wine Bar, located in Clayton. Like Charlie’s it started out in one spot,
but unlike Gitto’s, it has stayed right there.
It is in a kind of a run down building in down town Clayton and requires
a few steps down to gain entry. The
space is nothing sleek, probably been the same for the twenty years they’ve
been in business. We got “the greeting”
(will we ever move past this), but the wine and cocktail list was delivered
with the menu. It may be somewhat of a
stretch to include this in a “Italian” review piece, but the do have a category
of “Mediterranean Grazing”, and they do list a Tuscan stew, a Carbonara pasta
dish, and several Mediterranean leaning dishes on the menu. They also (at least for lunch) have a list
of “daily specials” which are deemed to be favorites, and Tuesday featured Roasted
Chicken in Puff Pastry, with seasonable vegetables in a buerre blanc
sauce. That actually sounded so good we
all ordered that.
A little quirk is that they had several wines that were “WOT”
meaning Wines on Tap. These suffice for
many (but not all) wines by the glass.
They have one of those octopus like systems with hoses running to several refrigerated bottles. Most of these systems have a nitrogen arrangement
to maintain freshness. I of course
seeked out one that was NOT WOT, a very nice Chardonnay. We quite enjoyed the lunch, although it
might have been a bit slow due to Christmas week, but nonetheless a very solid
lunch. We won’t go into the luxuries of
lunch, although we do remember the Oscar Wilde quote of “Don’t ask what you can
do for your Country, ask “what’s for lunch”.
Advice for the ages. We’ll
remember Remy’s next time
Tre
Remembering another sage quote from Thumper: “If you can’t say something nice don’t say
anything at all”. Well this is kind of
inverse, but our third Italian experience was at another Clayton haunt, Café Napoli. It precedes Remy’s by a few years, and has
been near the corner of Forsythe and Hanley forever. So, if you expect paragraph after paragraph
of Feeder pickiness, forget it. I have
visited the place over the years for (mostly) lunch and some dinners for years,
and found that it never changes, is always reliable, and the food is good. Service is also friendly and at dinner you
are apt to see many of the customers greeted by name by the servers, usually a
good sign. We were joined here by our
STL ex pat friend who was in town for the holidays, and now resides in DC, and
his wife who still maintains a residence here.
They still maintain the practice of presenting the tray with
raw “Stuff’ and an explanation of tonight’s preparation of same, plus a nice
menu which is pretty much arranged as enumerated above as typically Italian ,
although I am pleased to report that here a duck is called Vitello Piccata, as
it should be. Thank you..
Since I see I have entered Page three (tre), all I can say
is that everything was properly prepared, served right (including my pan seared
diver scallops). Always a lovely
experience no worries.
So I would rate our experiences as increasing in
satisfaction as listed. A pleasure to be
in St. Louis with so many options, and I haven’t scratched the surface.
Our last restaurant experience was a dinner at Libertine
(nee Chez Lyon) with FOJTE the following night (between Napoli and the
Christmas Eve feast). Another edition to
follow. At Napoli, we of course were
DFD
we leave for the return to the Digs tomorrow...