I went...

down not to the St. James infirmary, but to the Pub, much better place for lunch. I’ve talked about St. James Pub (on Mattapany and 235) a few times in the past, but last week afforded a chance to see if it’s still “got it”. Quick read: yessiree. As readers with a memory better than ye olde editor’s will remember, I like the place not because of the quality of the food, or the graciousness of the staff, I like it because it is what it is what it is. No pretentions of “dining” here, it’s where you come to eat. It’s just a pub that serves a lunch that you can depend on two years ago, last year, and this year. Rolled up paper napkin closed with green tape containing pressed silverware along with (that memory thing again), I think there is a paper placemat with local advertising.. Keno screens (I have never figured out that game) with whatever those cards are at the table (with the malt vinegar). CMT on the television. Servers that are not wet behind the ears, and although you might hear a “hon” once it a while, it’s all part of the package.

There’s also that white board with handwritten numbered specials on it, usually a sandwich of some sort, a heartier selection such as spaghetti and meat balls, or maybe meat loaf, and some kind of salad. Or turn to the menu containing exactly what you would expect to see. Tuna melt your preference? They got it. Burgers in a red plastic basket with (commercial) fries not double fried in duck fat fries, just fries. Want malt vinegar on those fries? Right there on the table for you. On the day we were there, a couple of Gyro’s with salad or fries from the board and menu fish and chips were ordered from our table. Upon ordering the Gyro we were asked whether we wanted chicken or lamb. Well, in another venue I might go off on why one would even think of offering a “chicken gyro”, but here it might be acceptable (well okay, I really don’t think so). You’re not here to reduce your cholesterol.. The (lamb, of course) Gyros arrived wrapped in that sort of leaky aluminum foil stuff, oozing white sauce (which I think is Tzakziki – cuc’s, yogurt, garlic) with lettuce, all falling out with your first bite. But it was tasty, the fries were fries, and the fish and fries were crispy and hot. Just what you would expect.

The big plastic glasses of tea/soda/water are refilled from those plastic fluted pitchers. Okay, you get the idea. It’s just right, it all fits. And the food is exactly what you expect issuing from that window behind the bar (with a Hell’s Kitchen plaque over the window). Some grease, a little sloppy on the presentation, but you don’t get surprised in either direction. A caveat is that I’ve never been there for anything but lunch, but if you want a solid, no frills get what you expect, go down to the St. James Pub, you might see your baby there!!

I hope you got your latest copy of Saveur – it’s another gem. You can read it after you

DFD