Thanksgiving Part II, "the wines!"

Ahhhh, the wines. The nectar of the Gods. After surviving the myriad preparations, gyrations, machinations, oven juggling required to produce “something” with the bird we’re now faced with that dreaded “pairing” issue. My gosh, will I ruin the dinner if I serve this? What about Aunt Ester wanting Mogen David (We’ve always had that at thanksgiving!)? Shall I serve Red; white; still; sparkling; French (on Thanksgiving?); American; German; Australian; Spanish; Italian; on and on. Well, after extensive research I can say: Yes.

A more succinct answer is my famous DWTHYL.

But, since that's too short, and for the sake of making you read a little further, here’s a list of wines that were “recommended” for your thanksgiving menu (I only relate the type, not the exact vintage and vineyard):

Sparkling: Champagne, American Sparkling, Italian Prosecco
Rose: France (NEVER WHITE ZIN!!!! It’s not rose)
Pinot Gris: Oregon, New Zealand
Sauvignon Blanc: NZ
Albarino: Spanish
Pinot Noir: France, New Zealand, Oregon
Sangiovese: Tuscany
Gewurtztraminer: Alsatian
Riesling: Mosel/Saar/Ruwer, Ontario, Australian
Syrah: Napa Valley
Roussanne/Viognier: France (Cotes du Rhone Blanc)
Chardonnay: Napa Valley
Merlot: Washington State
Various Italian wines with obscure names and availability, Bourbon(!).

With the notable exception of a Cabernet Sauvignon (which I probably missed someplace) the answer seems to be pretty much any wine in the world will do.

To give the intrepid wine writers their due, they do speak to “pairing”. For instance Gerald Asher (Gourmet) in talking about what to drink with a Pennsylvania Dutch menu (Cider Glazed Turkey) writes “to bind the (savory and sweet) tastes and textures and add something more, I reached for an unconventional Gewurtztraminer from Alsace, one with a suspicion of damask rose and lychee on the nose, and a mouth filling quality that can take cranberry sauce and corn pudding in stride”. Okay, thanks, Gerald. I’ll bet those Pennsylvania Dutch folks thought the same thing.

I think there are some basic guidelines here; you want to generally follow the spices, for instance, if you use a lot of sausage and spice on the turkey or stuffing that’s where the more robust reds are brought into play such as the Syrahs. A more plain preparation can move you to the whites. The problem is that there are so many flavors on the general thanksgiving table that what works with the turkey may not with the sides.

There was an interesting article in the Food & Wine by Thomas Ryder, who recounts his journey in finding the "perfect Thanksgiving bottle". A quote; “Thanksgiving wine is a nightmare. There are so many big, bold, and wildly contrasting flavors surrounding that turkey that no simpleminded rule is going to work” (he cited the red with red and white with white rule). He goes on to recount serving some Chateaux Lafite-Rothschild and Heitz Martha’s Vineyard, all to be overcome by the “cacophony of flavors on the plate”. His final strategy was to serve the big boys by themselves prior to dinner for the sheer enjoyment of them, and then use the (good quality) 15/20 bucks a bottle stuff at dinner. Pretty smart.

So the(maybe dissapointing) bottom line on the wines goes back to the Drink Whatever The Hell You Like theory, don’t worry about the dinner wines (with a bit of forethought, of course). Save the stars of the cellar for before and after you

DFD