A peaceful afternoon spent leading up to the culinary highlight to date, and which will face stiff competition not to remain at the top of the list. We always face a challenge when going to a city to try to find a good meal, and I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t always do sufficient homework. Yelp, Chowhound, Zagat, Epicurious all have guides but they’re tough and who knows how reliable. We’ve dined at several places in San Diego, and the travails of just getting there sort of overcame any research.
So, a decision of our hosts and us was to return to Tapenade in La Jolla, the scene of a previous wonderful meal. Hazardous as it is to return, we relied on its continuing reputation as one of the areas top dining spots. A reservation was secured for 6:45 and we showed up quite promptly. As all alert readers will know, Tapenade is a condiment from Provence, and hence French cuisine featured. It’s hard not to talk about “last time”, but it seemed the “maitre de” was a bit more French as was our server, Gregory. At first we thought him overbearing as he had a heavy French accent and was very demonstrative. Come to find out he was from the town of Albi, and as the evening wore on he became quite friendly.
We were seated at a table in the middle of the room, nearby the table from “last time”. We thought maybe the room had been re-painted from “last time”, but of course memories fade. Still it’s minimal and plain décor, but verypleasant. Upon being seated we were given menus and a cocktail list. Eventually Gregory (with no names mentioned) came and asked about drinks, and recited the appetizer and entrée specials of the night. Of course, I immediately forgot them. I applied the drink test, and MFO asked for the wine list for a glass of wine. The wine list was supplied and she wanted a glass of Sancerre. Fine. After a bit too long, the maitre de arrived with a silver tray with two “up” manhattans, dark with sweet vermouth, and a cheery. Um, excuse me, we asked for a dry manhatten, on the rocks, with a twist. To his credit, he replied: “well I guess we missed on three accounts” and left. He came back with exactly the right drink, and it was gratefully accepted. Bread was supplied, and we began to settle into the meal.
They have an interesting menu, one for “les Classiques” and one for “Winter Flavors”, a nice touch. The “classiques” offered such dishes as “Homard au maïs blanc, cèpes et vanille Tahitienne, (which of course you know is) Maine Lobster, White Corn, Porcini Mushrooms and English Peas, Corn and Tahitian Vanilla Sauce” or the classic Coq au Vin de Bourgogne. On the seasonal side were dishes like: Saint Jacques, Vonassienne au poireau, champignons, asperges; Diver Maine Scallops, Yukon Gold Potato and Leeks "Pancake" with Green Asparagus, Wild mushrooms & Port Wine Sauce. Or Sanglier Braisé "à l'ancienne": Braised Wild Boar, Celeriac and Black Truffle Raviolis, Root Vegetables with Huckleberry Red Wine Sauce. My god, how can you not love this stuff..
After settling in with the drinks and orders selected, I looked at the wine list. A challenge with appetizers chosen of Wild Mushroom Raviolis, a Mesclun salad, Lobster Minestrone, and I took the special Foie Gras Terrine. Chosen entrees were the Diver Maine Scallops (St. Jacques); the “Salmon d’Alaska”; and when it was determined that MFO secured the last scallop dish, the duck breast was selected. I could not resist trying the wild boar. What the hell. As I said, wine was problematical, so go with the middle of the road Pinot Noir. Scouring the wine list, I eventually found an Oregon Domaine Serene, which I had enjoyed before. It was listed as the ’06 vintage.
The appetizers arrived, delivered ladies first, not “who had the..”. The foibles of the wrong drink, the little too long time for service were erased with the taste. I don’t care what you think about Foie Gras, it’s a damn lovely food. God it was good. Everyone else appreciated their first course. Great presentations, good flavor, although there was some reluctance on the lobster minestone..
The wine delivered to the table was an ’07 vintage. When I pointed out it was on the wine list as ’06 it was removed, but alas, a search of the cellar didn’t reveal an’06. Unfortunately, I’m not yet good enough to know if an Oregon ’06 is better than ’07 so I accepted. In truth, it was not what I had hoped. I had remembered concentration of fruit with dark colors, but I didn’t find this in the ’07.
Entrees arrived and erased any apprehensions of “last time”. Without any emoting they were outstanding. The boar (tastes like beef) was tender, flavorful, and, as is a signal of a great place, each side made you pay attention.
Gregory softened, and with the food and wine, dessert was accepted. The crème brulee was served as a “ball” and was a great finish to a wonderful meal.
If you’re in San Diego and do the Del for lunch you couldn’t go wrong at Tapenade..It’s just amazing what can be done with food….and of course we were
DFD
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