Gree-its N' Collards....

Back to familiar foodie stuff now that the basketballs have been stored....

One of the nice opportunities we deserve for living close to the Nation’s Capitol (other than the beltway) is to take advantage of the Resident Associate programs of the Smithsonian Institution (open to public, but breaks for members). Every month there are numerous lectures, classes, workshops, and maybe tours on a multitude of subjects from photography to art appreciation, sketching, history, visiting civil war sites, etc. And, happily, there are usually several events centering on the Culinary Arts. Celeb chef talks, wine appreciation, beer tastings, etc. Almost something for everyone.

Last night a friend and I attended the first of two events that I signed up for in April. It was entitled “Southern Food” and featured the Lee Brothers. Although they were not born there, they mainly grew up Charleston, S.C. a dandy spot for foodies, but they are pretty much concerned with the broad spectrum of “southern cooking”. They got their start by starting a “boiled peanut” catalog for New Yorkers (and others) who had never heard of this southern staple. (It’s an acquired taste). Besides being food journalists they have written a couple of cookbooks on southern food. Their first (Southern Cookbook) won several awards, including a James Beard Award (I have pretty much found that James Beard books are worthwhile) for cookbook of the year. It’s full of recipes but also the culture of the region, somewhat like the classic John Egerton’s “Southern Food”. Both are valuable additions to your collection.

My expectations (there’s that nasty word again) and hopes were that I would learn about the evolution and diversity of what has been lumped together as “southern food”, with maybe some insights on how the diverse cultural makeup of slaves, Cajun/Creole (not the same), and various immigrant populations affected the various cuisines we associate with “the South”.

Well, almost. It turned out to be a loosely structured “interview” (for want of a better word) moderated by Linda Wertheimer (whom some might know of NPR fame) leading the discussions with Matt and Ted responding. At times, Linda seemed to be confused as to who the main attraction was, occasionally intent on relating her own points over the Lees. They started out decrying the notion that there is such a thing as “Southern Cooking”, instead there is much regional variation and a wide range of recipes for the same dish. Also, there are “micro regions” within the larger regions, with much different preparations for the same dish maybe 10 miles apart. “Oh “they” don’t make gumbo right down there, because they don’t use….. like we do”. I am always interested in this regional stuff, so I liked that part. I also learned about such condiments as “tin roof shrimp”; many variations on “chowchow”; a long discussion of Okra and how to “cook out the rope” meaning the sticky stuff. Do you know there is a famous “Dukes” mayonnaise? The different kinds of BBQ sauces were touched on, vinegar, mustard based, of course ketchup, with the remark that sauces tended to get sweeter as you moved west. Grits, pimiento cheese, and other classics were also touched on.

Another point they made (when Linda would let them) was that there are continual “tweaks” on classic southern recipes. Chefs are now building on the foundation of traditional food using new ingredients (such as smoked paprika) and coming up with new creations rooted in the southern (regional) heritage. Like say, poaching eggs in collard green liquor (which is supposed to be a “morning after” remedy, by the way).

All in all, despite the hoped for lack of anthropological background, it was an entertaining and informative evening. They are a lot of fun to listen to. I think they know their stuff, as they mentioned Leah Chase, not exactly a household word outside the south/New Orleans, and also the famous Charleston Receipts spiral cookbook. During the “Q&A” portion, my attempt at asking one was ignored by MS. Wertheimer, but during the “book signing” for their old and newer (Simple Fresh Southern) one I was able to ask it. I said that I currently reside in Southern Maryland's St. Mary's County which is known for Stuffed Ham, and had they ever heard of it. They thought they had, but were not “oh, of course!” which surprised me. Maybe I’ll have to send them a recipe.

I’m going up to another lecture next Monday, but I’ll keep you in suspense for the time being. We’re also planning on a “pre” meal at one of the restaurants I’ve had on the list for a long time. So besides the program, we’ll be

DFD