A Southern Classic...

In the latest edition of Garden and Gun, there was a little piece called “Spread the Love” (which i would have loved to title this post) about Pimento Cheese. Any time I hear that particular term, I can’t help but flash back to the 2008 Masters Golf Tournament in Augusta, GA where the food tents featured (among other things) a Pimento Cheese Sandwich consisting of the orange spread on plain white bread. Besides the memories of the course and golf, that sandwich remains sort of the keynote of the trip.

So I was intrigued by the little article and the recipe it contained. Pimento cheese is one of those classic southern dishes. I quickly turned to Egerton’s “Southern Food” the bible of that cuisine and found the following quote he attributed to Reynolds Price: “I’ve failed in a long effort to trace the origins of pimento cheese, but it was the peanut butter of my childhood – homemade by Mother. I suspect it’s a southern invention, (I’ve seldom met a non-southerner who knew what it was…)”. He then goes on to say commercial versions are available, but “most of them apparently made from congealed insecticides”. A recipe is given as well.

The Lee Brothers in their book “The Lee Brothers Southern Cookbook” say “There was a time when you could eat pimento cheese sandwiches at lunch counters throughout the South.”, but no further insight as to it’s heritage. Their recipe is a bit more foo – foo, calling for roasting your own peppers, etc., but that’s kind of their schtick… riffs on traditional recipes.

Anyway what caught my fancy in the Garden and Gun edition was that it was a return to classic “Why you shouldn’t get too tricky with pimento cheese”, approach and gave the recipe used at the Glass Onion in Charleston, SC from Chef Sarah O’Kelley. She also said that as to the mayo: “You must use Duke’s brand” unchanged since Eugenia Duke developed it in 1917, with no added sugar and more egg yolks that give it a richness similar to homemade.

Okay, you got me. Gotta try it. So acting on a tip from alert readers, I got myself to a local Food Lion, and got a jar of the fabled emulsion.



As well as that little yellow topped jar (which you buy and never really finish, languishing in the back of your fridge for years). And I don't know how the finished dish is called Pimento Cheese, but the peppers have that little extra "e" in it..more of the mystery



Preparation is relatively easy, with grating the cheese probably the most laborious part. I used Kraft Sharp Cheddar (all recipes agree you must use yellow cheese), and assembled the rest of the ingredients:



Quickly folding everything together doesn’t take long, resulting in a nicely looking spread



And with crackers you’re ready for cocktails



It didn’t take long to finish the whole bowl, it was really good. I may have added a little extra shake of cayenne, as it was a bit sneaky hot, but hey, that’s what those ice cubes in your glass is for..

Highly recommended. All the right stuff – southern classic, legendary ingredients. Do it!!

Pimento Cheese – Sarah O’Kelley, G&G; Apr/May 2010, pg. 27

2 Cups Sharp Orange Cheddar, grated (8 oz)
½ Cup Duke’s Mayonnaise
½ Cup Pimiento Peppers, drained and chopped (7 oz. jar)
¼ Cup Green Onion chopped (using both the green and the white parts)
1 tsp. black pepper
½ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. Cayenne
Dash of Tobasco

Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl, and stir with a rubber spatula. Serve immediately with crackers, or cover, refrigerate, and let flavors marinate.

Easy.

Quick Restaurant Update –

check later today for breaking news about the restaurant in Leonardtown. Things they are a changing..what a business...

Where I’m sure you will have to be

DFD