Chi Chez in Clayton..

The problem with being on the so called “road” is that well, you’re on the road, not writing. Which means endless hours in the Momster watching the world go by. It’s interesting, the preponderance of our trips back here to STL have been in the winter months, with shades of brown and beige adorning the landscape. It struck us how green it is now. Not an earthshaking observation, but it was surprising to us. The mountains of West (by God) Virginia are now pillows of green rather than barren hills with leafless trees.

Anyway after a late Monday get away we got to Beckley, where we usually stay on the return leg, but this time made it our outbound haven. Not much to talk about, we did a carry out from the downstairs “restaurant” in the Courtyard, of a quesadilla and a chicken Caesar wrap. The only notes made were that the food was convenient..

A super long day on Tuesday got us to STL late in the afternoon with only a brief respite before meeting FOJTE and a local friend for dinner at Chez Leon in Clayton. STL readers may know that this restaurant used to be in the Central West End, and lately moved to downtown Clayton. It is an out and out no holds barred classical French restaurant. They even have “Cuisine Traditionnelle” on their awnings. It’s in a storefront and so has large windows, but that area is given over to reception and a small bar. Fearing traffic issues our party of four arrived a little earlier than our other friend and we were offered a wait and a (much welcomed) cocktail while we waited. The bar area is done all in black with an ornate chandelier suspended over head, a large “Grandfather clock” against the wall giving the place a real European appearance. Art hangs on the wall, mostly paintings of food in an almost impressionistic mode. They’re very nice.

Anyway we sipped on a couple of Chardonnays, a Tanqueray and Tonic, and a passed drink test, although the ratio of dry vermouth to Bourbon seemed almost reversed. Soon our friend arrived, we finished the cocktails and moved to the dining area which is sort of set off with small walls between the bar area and the dining spaces. Again black walls, and art set off the white tablecloths gleaming with silver and sparkling crystal. Nice and welcoming, raising those expectations. We were seated and in a short time greeted by Ilya, who turned out to be of Albanian descent, and unfortunately did the spiel. Oh, well. Menus were distributed, a single page divided into areas of: Pour Commencer; Les Potages; Les Salades: Les Plates Principaux; and Les Desserts. Hopefully most readers will be familiar those terms. Each section had what one might expect in such a restaurant. For instance under the appetizers were such choices as Les Crevettes aux Lardons, Les Ris de Veau aux capres, and foie gras paysanne. Soups of course incluced soupe à l’onion gratinee. The main plates also were as expected with things like rôti de poulet au jus de truffes, and onglet comme à paris. Of course, all these dishes had English translations, but golly they sound so much better in French rather than “roasted chicken with truffled mushroom sauce”.

As an insert here, I must point out that before you go rushing for a table, Chez Leon is not a place one would go weekly unless you have recently won that lottery. The starters are all 12 bucks and more, salads 9, and the least expensive main is 25 dollars with tops going to a Colorado rack of lamb for an astounding (and unjustifiable IMHO) $48. To help with the sticker shock, they do offer a rather attractive option that you can select 3 items (mix and match) for $43, with a few dishes carrying “supplements” such as the afore mentioned lamb which bumps the total by 20 bucks. But, most do not and still offer attractive options. While we’re looking at economizing, if you go on Tuesday evening (such as we did) they waive corkage fees so you can bring your own wine and enjoy a great bottle for no added cost. We also did that.

All of us opted for the 3 plate deal. Of course I was hooked once again by the patés maison, to which I added the truite amandine, and the classic crème brulée (which by menu pricing would have been $49). Others ordered scallops, the soups a couple of salades lyonnaise (warm greens with bacon and that poached egg), MFO did a beet salad, the roasted chicken and the assiette fromage (+$3), also a couple of the steak dishes and a pork chop (with choucroute).

As I see the line count mounting here, I’ll just say that everything was very good, ample portions, cooked correctly and served properly. I am not sure if it was because it was Tuesday, but the service was, while correct, extremely long between courses. Of course with the wine (a very good California pinot and syrah courtesy of our friend and FOJTE) and conversation filling the gaps it wasn’t bad, but noted.

Certainly if you appreciate or would like to try true French Cuisine, this is a great place to go (they also serve lunch). Bring your own bottle on Tuesday, be careful (or extravagant) with your menu choices and you will have a great meal..

but beware, you must be

DFD