Critical Confusion...

Since George hasn’t gotten back to me yet about writing Messiah II, we’ll veer back into more familiar ground.

As a wannabe food critic, I always pay attention to other “critics” and reviewers in my various food publications. One normally thinks that they have wider experiences with food, a reasonable pallet, and the guts to tell others what (they think) is good and what isn’t. For instance, I’ve always had pretty good luck trusting people like Tom Sietsema and Ruth Reichl as a guide, and generally believe what I read about various restaurants in most food magazines. Yes, I know things can be relative; there are no absolutes, but the critics do provide data, and for the most part recommend reliable and interesting places with enough description to allow you to make some evaluation if you would like to go spend your money there. At worst they will help you avoid a bad experience..

After reading through my last edition of St. Louis Magazine (Dec. 2010; Vol. 16, No. 12) with “STEAKHOUSES” emblazoned across the front, I have become somewhat shaken. Well, that’s maybe a bit strong, but at least curious.. The magazine’s stable of food “Critics” are Dave Lowry, George Mahe, and the venerable Joe (and Ann) Pollack. The article about the 12 top houses (in no particular order, thank goodness) is comprised of a couple of paragraphs about each one. Some are familiar, (at least to the STL crowd), such as Annie Gunn’s, Al’s, Mike Shannon’s, Kreis’, and Morton’s, along with some not so familiar like Prime 1000, Shula’s 347 Grill, SLeeK, and Stoney River. Good reading and a guide for those carnivores enjoying “Pleistocene hunks of meat”.

While they avoid rating and ranking the places (good move) each of the critics has a little box entitled: “Picks and Pans: A Critics Take”, wherein they list Best Independent, Best Chain, and Most Overrated. One might think that each critic should be generally aligned with each other, after all, they’re supposed to be knowledgeable, and they have to work together!

Here’s the Rundown in order above (best independent, best chain, and most overrated)

George Mahe: Annie Gunn’s; Morton’s; Andria’s Steakhouse
The Pollack’s: Mike Shannon’s; Ruth Chris; Citizen Kane’s
Dave Lowry: Citizen Kane’s; Ruth Chris; Annie Gunn’s

Whoa! What a hodge-podge! Mahe’s best is Dave’s overrated; Dave’s best is Pollack’s overrated. What’s a diner to take away from that? Where should I go? Does it make any difference? Next time I get a new issue with their reviews in it, how should I take them? Get a second opinion? Methinks the editors might have considered how that might be received…

Local Notes:

I see in the paper this morning (I hate finding out things in the paper, I should be better than that!) that the old “Bingo Parlor” situated on our corner (Millstone Landing/Rte. 235) by the McDonald’s is being renovated to become………a liquor store! We sure need more of those! Now there will be all the necessities of life in one convenient location: a bank, a McDonald’s, and a liquor store. What more can you wish for in Southern Maryland? Maybe the demons will come down from their stoplights and get a belt.

Driving tip!

And, speaking of those demons, I have at last found a way to thwart their habit of turning the light red just before you get there causing you to sit out the 10 minute cycle gnashing teeth and pounding your head on the steering wheel. All you do is calmly reach into the seat next to you, pick up your smart phone (which you never use while driving) and start looking at your text messages/e-mails. Before you know it, a horn behind you will snap you out of it and the light will be green! Painless! That time compression thing..Try it!!

Boy, it sure is cold…make sure you also

DFC(old)