Whiskey River take my mind
Don't let her memory torture me
Whiskey River don't run dry
You're all I've got, take care of me
Don't let her memory torture me
Whiskey River don't run dry
You're all I've got, take care of me
-Willie Nelson
Well, at LONG (long!) last we can take that River and talk about
WhiskEy/Bourbon.. what started out as a story about our quick little tour of our local Tobacco
Barn Distillery has snowballed into maybe more than you want to know about our
American Bourbon. Strap In! Before we
get specifically into Tobacco Barn perhaps a little background is appropriate
(hopefully not TMI!)
Definitions
While Bourbon is an American Whiskey, not all American
whiskey is Bourbon. To be called “Bourbon”
the spirit must meet the following criteria according to the US Government:
The Federal Standards of
Identity for Distilled Spirits state that Bourbon made for U.S.
consumption must be:
Produced in the United States
Made from a grain mixture that
is at least 51% corn
Aged in new, charred oak
containers
Distilled to no more than 160
(U.S.) proof (80% alcohol by volume (ABV))
Entered into the barrel for
aging at no more than 125 proof (62.5% ABV)
Bottled (like other whiskeys) at
80 proof or more (40% ABV)
Bourbon has no minimum specified
duration for its aging period. Products aged for as little as three months
are sold as bourbon. The exception is “straight” bourbon, which has a
minimum aging requirement of two years. In addition, any bourbon aged less than
four years must include an age statement on its label.
Bourbon that meets the above
requirements, has been aged for a minimum of two years, and does not have added
coloring, flavoring, or other spirits may (but is not required to) be called straight bourbon.
*
Bourbon that is labeled as straight that has been aged
under four years must be labeled with the duration of its aging.
Bourbon that has an age stated
on its label must be labeled with the age of the youngest whiskey in the bottle (not counting the age of any
added neutral grain spirits in a bourbon that is labeled as blended, as
neutral-grain spirits are not considered whiskey under the regulations and are
not required to be aged at all).
Bourbon that is labeled blended (or as a blend) may contain added coloring,
flavoring, and other spirits (such as un-aged neutral grain spirits); but at
least 51% of the product must be straight bourbon.
Bourbon which has been aged for
fewer than 3 years cannot legally be referred to as whiskey (or whisky) in the
EU.
*Bourbon can be made anywhere in the US. Only whiskey
produced in the State of Kentucky can be called labeled Kentucky (Straight)
Whiskey for instance.
Okay, so you and Jeb don’t just set up a still in your
backyard and create Moonshine (unless you want a visit by the ATF or “revenuers”).
The Process
There are
several general steps (all regulated by the “rules” above) in creating the
Bourbon:
One: Determine the “mash bill” grain mix (>50% (usually
more) corn for Bourbon, plus rye, wheat, etc.) that is crushed into a flour.
Two: Add water to begin extracting soluble sugars
from starch
Three: Cook the
grain extracting the maximum amount of sugar to create the Mash
Four: transfer the
Mash to the fermentation tank external adding yeast to convert sugars to
alcohol, creating a low alcohol “beer”
Five: Distill
the “Beer” by cooking the “wash” to produce and condense the vapors to create
the spirits
Six: put
spirits into vessels for aging
Seven: Age the
spirits.
Eight: Bottle the product
In Practice
Within each of the steps above, there is science and
chemistry. Temperatures must be closely
monitored, progress must be closely watched and measured to assure nothing goes
awry (like overheating and killing the yeast!). Experience, instrumentation, electronics and
the watchful eye of the master distiller all play a part. So we circle back to
Southern Maryland and the Tobacco Barn distillery and how they actually “Do it!”.
Step One: The Mash
Bill is cooked in this 300 gallon tank
For about 90 Minutes
And then it is transferred to the 900-gallon fermenter,
which is temperature controlled to cool the heat generated by the fermentation
process. They use multiple cooling steps
that support two distinct starch-to-sugar conversions
The resulting low alcohol “beer” goes back to the 300-gallon stainless
tank for the “stripping run”, the initial distillation of the mash which
removes the water, yeast, impurities, and sediment, which produces the “white
dog” raw whiskey.
After the “Stripping Run” the raw stuff goes to a 100 gallon
spirit still with condenser to further refine the spirits
And is (computer) temperature controlled which provides ½ percent
variability in final spirit proof (which by law must be no more than 80% ABV).
It is then transferred to a bonded spirit locker await barreling
where the spirit looks like
And then it goes into the barrels (at less than 62.5% ABV by
law), Tobacco Barn generally barrel around 55%, (which they think produces a
richer bourbon at bottling) for a long rest in the warehouse
Remember the barrels must be charred new oak providing the
rich color of the finished Bourbon. we
did some “barrel tasting” showing what happens to the clear liquid that went in
years ago
It is then bottled at more than greater than 40% ABV, or 80
proof.
While there is a lot of experience and love used, there is
also modern technology to help monitor things!
Their product is usually bottled around 90 proof.
Besides Bourbon, they also produce a (Constellation) Rum a
whole other story, a Moll Dyer Cinnamon whiskey, a honey Bourbon, and a “First
Landing Bourbon and Rye Whisky. You can
visit their web site for more details.
After the education during the "tour" we adjourned to the
Manor House for that lovely shrimp and remoulade (recipe in earlier posting).
Kudos to the Dawsons, who developed the distillery in St.
Mary’s County a new venture the county, and provided a wonderful afternoon for
FOJTE and wife, and friends. They are a
true county treasure!
So there you have my (lengthy) bourbon treatise, I hope there aren’t
egregious errors. And now, as cocktail
hour again approaches, the standard reminder to
Drink Local! and
DFD
And fight for NMMJ
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