Well, here we go again.. about to depart for an adventure in the Midwest, including a couple of days with a group from Historic St. Mary’s City in Hannibal focusing on Samuel Clemens. We’re then going to stay a couple of extra days in STL to see FOJTE and Y, and have a joint culinary experience.
Yesterday I received what will be my last issue of Gourmet magazine. I had been anticipating it figuring there would be a reprise of the last 40 years or so of publication, maybe a lament by Ruth Richl, something to mark it’s passing. Nope. The standard November picture of a brown turkey on the cover, this year’s twist on thanksgiving articles, you’d never know it was the last. Sort of disappointing, going out with a whimper as it were. Time marches on.
So we’ll try to document our progress, include some photos and I think there will be ample material for the feeder..
Hopefully the internet will be more accessible this time..and we’re taking duds to
DFD
Saturday, October 24, 2009
Thursday, October 22, 2009
As You Like it...
We recently had a guest over for dinner at the digs. Since the weather was reasonably good, we unfroze a couple of steaks from Nick’s and decided we would grill them. We got some baking potatoes, and some mushrooms for a sauce (more later), together with some greens for a salad, just a homey dinner focused on conversation and companionship, hopefully aided by some good chow.
Having dined with our guest before, we knew that there was a preference for “well done” steaks. After a couple of glasses of wine, we got into a discussion on “how do you like your steaks?”. Our guest apologized for wanting it cooked that way, and recounted how there have been times in restaurants where recriminations were made for ordering it that way. I know there are sometimes asterisks on menus leading to some comment about how they cannot guarantee the quality of a steak cooked past medium, yadda yadda, and often will punish the person by serving up a hunk of (often butterflied) charred leather from the blazing grill. What crap. You know what? It is possible to cook a steak to pinkish gray or even gray without completely burning it. It might take a little more care and attention, but it can be done. A kitchen should be able to respond. True, there may not be as much juice with it, but that’s when a good sauce will help. It seems to be popularly believed that the best steak must be rare, and oozing blood to be a “real steak”. Whoops! There’s that word again! – Best.
Well, what’s best for this person is a well done but not destroyed piece of meat. They know what they’re going to get, and that’s what they want. Nobody should be put down for wanting something different from what you might personally prefer. A restaurant is there to give you what you want, not what they want you to have. If they can’t supply it, they shouldn’t be in business. Nobody should ever have to be embarrassed or apologize for ordering what they want and how they want it prepared: “Of course. Thank you, we’ll take care of it.”
As for our protein, Penzey’s Chicago Steak Seasoning was applied about 20 minutes prior to cooking, the grill preheated (as much as my pitiful grill will allow), and I committed the steak to the hottest (as much as my pitiful grill will allow) part of the grill just long enough to mark it and form a little caramelization. I then flipped it to a cooler portion of the grill and allowed it to cook further without forming any more crusting. I left it there until the press test (and okay, the instant read thermometer) indicated a wellish done consistency and temperature, and transferred it to a platter in the warming drawer for about 15 minutes while we enjoyed the salad. I sliced the steaks diagonally in about a half of an inch slices. The meat was moist and a very nice light gray color with a nice crust. I fanned it on the plate, applied the mushroom sauce and it was much enjoyed. Not all that hard.
Oh, the sauce was pretty good. Just some sliced mushrooms sautéed in (lots) of butter until they were nice a moisty brown, added some heavy cream and about a half teaspoon of fresh chopped tarragon, a spoonful of Dijon, salt and pepper and allowed it to reduce until a good consistency. Starch was the standard baked potato and sour cream. Why mess with success.. . Voila! Nice meal all around. Good friends, food, and wine (Solomons Island Winery ’07 “Maryland Artist Series” Cab Franc/Merlot) and all were
DFD
PS: There is a concert today at noon in St. Mary's Hall at St. Mary's College - Bach, Beethoven, Brian (Ganz) and Beverly (Babcock) - along with friends Jose Cueto (violin) and Suzanne Orban (cello). More nothing to do....
Having dined with our guest before, we knew that there was a preference for “well done” steaks. After a couple of glasses of wine, we got into a discussion on “how do you like your steaks?”. Our guest apologized for wanting it cooked that way, and recounted how there have been times in restaurants where recriminations were made for ordering it that way. I know there are sometimes asterisks on menus leading to some comment about how they cannot guarantee the quality of a steak cooked past medium, yadda yadda, and often will punish the person by serving up a hunk of (often butterflied) charred leather from the blazing grill. What crap. You know what? It is possible to cook a steak to pinkish gray or even gray without completely burning it. It might take a little more care and attention, but it can be done. A kitchen should be able to respond. True, there may not be as much juice with it, but that’s when a good sauce will help. It seems to be popularly believed that the best steak must be rare, and oozing blood to be a “real steak”. Whoops! There’s that word again! – Best.
Well, what’s best for this person is a well done but not destroyed piece of meat. They know what they’re going to get, and that’s what they want. Nobody should be put down for wanting something different from what you might personally prefer. A restaurant is there to give you what you want, not what they want you to have. If they can’t supply it, they shouldn’t be in business. Nobody should ever have to be embarrassed or apologize for ordering what they want and how they want it prepared: “Of course. Thank you, we’ll take care of it.”
As for our protein, Penzey’s Chicago Steak Seasoning was applied about 20 minutes prior to cooking, the grill preheated (as much as my pitiful grill will allow), and I committed the steak to the hottest (as much as my pitiful grill will allow) part of the grill just long enough to mark it and form a little caramelization. I then flipped it to a cooler portion of the grill and allowed it to cook further without forming any more crusting. I left it there until the press test (and okay, the instant read thermometer) indicated a wellish done consistency and temperature, and transferred it to a platter in the warming drawer for about 15 minutes while we enjoyed the salad. I sliced the steaks diagonally in about a half of an inch slices. The meat was moist and a very nice light gray color with a nice crust. I fanned it on the plate, applied the mushroom sauce and it was much enjoyed. Not all that hard.
Oh, the sauce was pretty good. Just some sliced mushrooms sautéed in (lots) of butter until they were nice a moisty brown, added some heavy cream and about a half teaspoon of fresh chopped tarragon, a spoonful of Dijon, salt and pepper and allowed it to reduce until a good consistency. Starch was the standard baked potato and sour cream. Why mess with success.. . Voila! Nice meal all around. Good friends, food, and wine (Solomons Island Winery ’07 “Maryland Artist Series” Cab Franc/Merlot) and all were
DFD
PS: There is a concert today at noon in St. Mary's Hall at St. Mary's College - Bach, Beethoven, Brian (Ganz) and Beverly (Babcock) - along with friends Jose Cueto (violin) and Suzanne Orban (cello). More nothing to do....
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Lunch on the go...
A busy week leading up to the trip to MO this week, so probably hit and miss publication
A couple of lunches (I notice that retirement seems to elevate lunch chances) lately, probably worth commenting on. The first was at Coffee Quarter in the ever changing milieu of the dining scene in San Souci. Their update is that they now offer beer and wine, which can’t hurt anybody. I am not sure if the menu has been revamped as well, but there is a lunch and dinner side of the same sheet of paper. Dinner centers on “tapas”, and also offers pizzas, sushi (?!), crab sliders, a pork loin with apple slaw, and other “little plates”, along with sandwiches and salads. We used the Luncheon side, which offers at least 13 sandwiches (dubbed “gourmet”) along with salads and those pizzas. I know they used to feature Boar’s Head products, and I assume they still do, although I noticed that the description of the “ovengold turkey breast” sandwich claimed it was home baked. Hmmmm —how’s that work? Anyway, I ordered a Reuben (and a Dogfish Head ale), while my companion had some soup of the day and the Hummus with Tabbouleh salad. In true coffee house fashion, the existence of your order is signaled by calling out your name: “Bill!!” and you go pick it up at the counter. My Reuben was nicely put together, with what looked a whole lot like BH corned beef, on rye along with the cheese and kraut. The soup was reported as very good, but the Hummus was the best dish. Creamy Hummus with pita points, and the green tabbouleh made a for very nice light luncheon dish, nicely paired with the soup. The beer was cold and good. The day we were there, it was fairly busy, but there were no delays in service. Another option for the ever popular lunch.
My second lunch was with MFO at Panera, the occasion mostly engendered by wanting to further investigate the demons that seem tohave infested my laptop causing random and whimsical connections to the internet. I could not connect at CQ, and wanted to try another network, and reports are that Panera’s is robust. Since there are 4 order takers, those unfamiliar with the drill at Panera are almost immediately confronted with somebody wanting to take your order. The “menu” consists of large board posted behind them so you have to look up and try to figure out where the hell the sandwiches and salads and luncheon “stuff” are. MFO cleverly avoided the awkward gawking by ordering a “new” barbeque chopped chicken salad advertised on a board as we walked in. I, on the other hand was wallowing around in the “Café”; “Panini”; and “Signature” sandwiches, trying to figure out what the difference was. There is also “hand tossed signature” and “hand tossed café” salads. What’s up with that? Why can’t there be just sandwiches and salads. Leave the adjectives out please. Who cares? In fairness, I must report that soups are just soups. Not “slow simmered” or anything, but they’re probably working on that. Anyway I panicked into the Asiago Roast Beef (which is signature, by the way), described as: “Oven-roasted beef, smoked cheddar, lettuce, tomatoes, red onions & creamy horseradish sauce, on our Asiago Cheese Demi”. Okay fine. We chose drinks and chips, and now exhausted by the ordeal, shuffle down the line, Soup Nazi style with paper in hand to the receiving end. By the time we selected our table our number was being called, amazingly fast service. Always taking data, I noticed that the numbers are seemingly random. Our 4361 was called after 1545, and the next one was 3617. Maybe a scheme I am not aware of. Anyway, the fast food, was, well, fast. My sandwich looked hastily put together, and the “smoked cheddar” was in the form of a velveeta like square, lopping out both sides. The red onions were not particularly sliced, rather in long strands. The “oven roasted” beef looked again like luncheon meat. But, it did have some taste. The bread was fine and crunchy. I looked, but didn’t see any signature anyplace. MFO’s salad was a pile of greens, with some “roasted corn” scattered about, some of that chopped chicken and a squirt bottle application of BBQ sauce atop. Portions were rather large. I did see one of those hollowed out bread bowls of soup go by. Sheesh. I guess people still eat those things. Anyway, if you want in and out, processed, there you go food, visit. Probably fairly consistent. Oh, I was able to hook to their net. Go figure. Demons asleep and not
DFD
A couple of lunches (I notice that retirement seems to elevate lunch chances) lately, probably worth commenting on. The first was at Coffee Quarter in the ever changing milieu of the dining scene in San Souci. Their update is that they now offer beer and wine, which can’t hurt anybody. I am not sure if the menu has been revamped as well, but there is a lunch and dinner side of the same sheet of paper. Dinner centers on “tapas”, and also offers pizzas, sushi (?!), crab sliders, a pork loin with apple slaw, and other “little plates”, along with sandwiches and salads. We used the Luncheon side, which offers at least 13 sandwiches (dubbed “gourmet”) along with salads and those pizzas. I know they used to feature Boar’s Head products, and I assume they still do, although I noticed that the description of the “ovengold turkey breast” sandwich claimed it was home baked. Hmmmm —how’s that work? Anyway, I ordered a Reuben (and a Dogfish Head ale), while my companion had some soup of the day and the Hummus with Tabbouleh salad. In true coffee house fashion, the existence of your order is signaled by calling out your name: “Bill!!” and you go pick it up at the counter. My Reuben was nicely put together, with what looked a whole lot like BH corned beef, on rye along with the cheese and kraut. The soup was reported as very good, but the Hummus was the best dish. Creamy Hummus with pita points, and the green tabbouleh made a for very nice light luncheon dish, nicely paired with the soup. The beer was cold and good. The day we were there, it was fairly busy, but there were no delays in service. Another option for the ever popular lunch.
My second lunch was with MFO at Panera, the occasion mostly engendered by wanting to further investigate the demons that seem tohave infested my laptop causing random and whimsical connections to the internet. I could not connect at CQ, and wanted to try another network, and reports are that Panera’s is robust. Since there are 4 order takers, those unfamiliar with the drill at Panera are almost immediately confronted with somebody wanting to take your order. The “menu” consists of large board posted behind them so you have to look up and try to figure out where the hell the sandwiches and salads and luncheon “stuff” are. MFO cleverly avoided the awkward gawking by ordering a “new” barbeque chopped chicken salad advertised on a board as we walked in. I, on the other hand was wallowing around in the “Café”; “Panini”; and “Signature” sandwiches, trying to figure out what the difference was. There is also “hand tossed signature” and “hand tossed café” salads. What’s up with that? Why can’t there be just sandwiches and salads. Leave the adjectives out please. Who cares? In fairness, I must report that soups are just soups. Not “slow simmered” or anything, but they’re probably working on that. Anyway I panicked into the Asiago Roast Beef (which is signature, by the way), described as: “Oven-roasted beef, smoked cheddar, lettuce, tomatoes, red onions & creamy horseradish sauce, on our Asiago Cheese Demi”. Okay fine. We chose drinks and chips, and now exhausted by the ordeal, shuffle down the line, Soup Nazi style with paper in hand to the receiving end. By the time we selected our table our number was being called, amazingly fast service. Always taking data, I noticed that the numbers are seemingly random. Our 4361 was called after 1545, and the next one was 3617. Maybe a scheme I am not aware of. Anyway, the fast food, was, well, fast. My sandwich looked hastily put together, and the “smoked cheddar” was in the form of a velveeta like square, lopping out both sides. The red onions were not particularly sliced, rather in long strands. The “oven roasted” beef looked again like luncheon meat. But, it did have some taste. The bread was fine and crunchy. I looked, but didn’t see any signature anyplace. MFO’s salad was a pile of greens, with some “roasted corn” scattered about, some of that chopped chicken and a squirt bottle application of BBQ sauce atop. Portions were rather large. I did see one of those hollowed out bread bowls of soup go by. Sheesh. I guess people still eat those things. Anyway, if you want in and out, processed, there you go food, visit. Probably fairly consistent. Oh, I was able to hook to their net. Go figure. Demons asleep and not
DFD
Monday, October 19, 2009
Monday, monday...
Hi Moms and Pops! Well, the sun and spirits rose this morning after three straight days of downright miserable weather (see below). My weekend consisted mostly of hanging out at the fairgrounds, helping out with the Oyster Festival. Time was split between dispensing adult beverages and timing the Shuckers. I therefore didn’t get to observe any of the cooking aspect of the Festival, although I did taste some of the results. It’s amazing what people can think of to do with the humble oyster. Sometimes simple preps of simple food is a good thing – one of the entries in this year’s cookbook for instance has a recipe for “Cordoba Oysters over Lemon Scented Linguine”, with 15 ingredients. A nice dish probably, but maybe more to catch the judge’s eye than the consumer’s palate.
From the beer stand you can pretty much keep track of the attendees, and although numbers were held down by the miserable weather (see below), there were still more than we had feared. And, despite temperatures in the 40’s, the golden liquid poured from the taps almost continuously. Sam Adam’s Oktoberfest probably was the highest seller (only other options were Coor’s Light, Killians, and Blue Moon). Guinness was also available at another stand. I am always somewhat bemused by those customers who, upon finding that Bud Light is not available and only Coor’s is on the list, will turn and walk away. Discerning.
Being around the oyster shuckers (called “openers” in Europe) is always a fun experience. With a few exceptions, they are mostly the same set from year to year and they really enjoy themselves. Most work in raw bars, so if hands aren't holding an oyster knife, they probably are gripping a beer and/or cigarette. Very friendly folk. This year’s overall National Champion was Scotty O’Lear from Florida with a winning time of just over 3 minutes, resulting from actual opening time plus added penalty points for off the shell, cut, not completely released, or dirty oysters. I think he had just over a minute of added seconds, so the real shucking time was under two minutes. Try that at home with two dozen of the balky bivalves!
One of the experiences I will always remember from this year was standing at the back of a pickup truck with tailgate down, positioned behind the shucking stand, where the oysters are “prepared” for shucking (cleaning, knocking off doubles, etc.). It was bone chilling cold, the rain was coming sideways, we were in almost ankle deep mud, but we had freshly scalded oysters (propane cooker), hot sauce, crackers, and beer in plastic cups. Life can be good.
Left Turn
Another annual feature on Festival Weekend, is Tom Sietsema’s annual Dining Guide in the Washington Post Magazine. This year was the 10th edition and thank goodness it wasn’t centered on the economy, (value meals, early birds, etc.) but contains his 50 favorite restaurants. He also added another to the “four star” category, an Indian restaurant. The “four stars/superlative” are: CityZen; Komi; Rasika; Inn at Little Washington; and Restaurant Eve’s Tasting Room. All save Rasika (Indian) are “contemporary American” cuisine. Somewhat surprisingly, Michel Richard’s venues of Citronelle and Central garnered 4½ and 3 stars. Our old favorite Kinkeads didn’t even get listed. The ebb and flow of the restaurant world. Tom claims that over those 10 years, he has consumed 4000 restaurant meals. That’s more than one a day! Not sure the feeder is up to that level..
The Miserable Weather:
A busy week ahead, followed by yet another road trip!! Ee hah and an opportunity to
DFD
From the beer stand you can pretty much keep track of the attendees, and although numbers were held down by the miserable weather (see below), there were still more than we had feared. And, despite temperatures in the 40’s, the golden liquid poured from the taps almost continuously. Sam Adam’s Oktoberfest probably was the highest seller (only other options were Coor’s Light, Killians, and Blue Moon). Guinness was also available at another stand. I am always somewhat bemused by those customers who, upon finding that Bud Light is not available and only Coor’s is on the list, will turn and walk away. Discerning.
Being around the oyster shuckers (called “openers” in Europe) is always a fun experience. With a few exceptions, they are mostly the same set from year to year and they really enjoy themselves. Most work in raw bars, so if hands aren't holding an oyster knife, they probably are gripping a beer and/or cigarette. Very friendly folk. This year’s overall National Champion was Scotty O’Lear from Florida with a winning time of just over 3 minutes, resulting from actual opening time plus added penalty points for off the shell, cut, not completely released, or dirty oysters. I think he had just over a minute of added seconds, so the real shucking time was under two minutes. Try that at home with two dozen of the balky bivalves!
One of the experiences I will always remember from this year was standing at the back of a pickup truck with tailgate down, positioned behind the shucking stand, where the oysters are “prepared” for shucking (cleaning, knocking off doubles, etc.). It was bone chilling cold, the rain was coming sideways, we were in almost ankle deep mud, but we had freshly scalded oysters (propane cooker), hot sauce, crackers, and beer in plastic cups. Life can be good.
Left Turn
Another annual feature on Festival Weekend, is Tom Sietsema’s annual Dining Guide in the Washington Post Magazine. This year was the 10th edition and thank goodness it wasn’t centered on the economy, (value meals, early birds, etc.) but contains his 50 favorite restaurants. He also added another to the “four star” category, an Indian restaurant. The “four stars/superlative” are: CityZen; Komi; Rasika; Inn at Little Washington; and Restaurant Eve’s Tasting Room. All save Rasika (Indian) are “contemporary American” cuisine. Somewhat surprisingly, Michel Richard’s venues of Citronelle and Central garnered 4½ and 3 stars. Our old favorite Kinkeads didn’t even get listed. The ebb and flow of the restaurant world. Tom claims that over those 10 years, he has consumed 4000 restaurant meals. That’s more than one a day! Not sure the feeder is up to that level..
The Miserable Weather:
A busy week ahead, followed by yet another road trip!! Ee hah and an opportunity to
DFD
Friday, October 16, 2009
Fast Friday
After surviving nearly 3000 miles in 8 states without any particularly close calls for the Momster, it was nice to be welcomed back by St. Mary’s County drivers again. When I grew up and took driver’s training, we were taught that a double yellow line was not to be crossed. That is, black tires should not touch yellow paint. Ah, I was wrong again. Once again, in SMC traffic “laws” are treated as suggestions to be followed only if convenient. At the end of our main street, it “T’s” into Millstone landing which eventually meets Rte. 235 at the demon infested lights there (where they are alive and well, I can report). Anyway, our main road butts into Millstone at the top of a little hill with just enough slope that a car can sort of “hide” there and suddenly appear during your execution of the right hand turn. To avoid this, despite wanting to turn right, I always cozy up to the protective yellow line to get as much view down the hill as I am able. Well, such a stupid driver as I am, that forces anybody who wants to turn left onto Esperanza from Millstone to actually go way out of their way and turn left completely into their right lane. A much preferred path is to begin the left turn a couple of car lengths before the road, and get all four wheels actually on “my” side of the line, crossing all four tires on yellow paint. I have had to brake hard approaching the intersection to allow them to execute this turn. Another version is when you’re sitting at a major(ish) intersection wanting to turn left anxiously waiting for the light to turn. I always position myself well within the protective barrier of the double yellow line on my left, and back from the broad white line in front of me. When the green arrow releases the river of steel wanting to turn left in front of me, I can’t tell you how many times I’ve held my breath figuring “this is it!” as cars come within inches of my left front, sometimes getting a glare. Sigh…
On a more pleasant note, I happened on a little Scotch tasting last night. It was conducted by Gordon Wright, a near legendary distiller of single malt scotch whiskeys, who started “Alchemist” He was a charming host, and gave a very understandable little talk on the processes involved and why there is such a variation in single malts. What barrels are used for aging, the amount of peat smoke in the malting of the barley, barrel aging, and even the air (which I am not sure I believe) all result in the wide range of tastes and “nose”. I am not particularly a single malt guy, but I did find one I very much liked, called Bruichladdich (I believe roughly pronounced “broo laddie”. Prices can be pretty steep, but on the other hand, a bottle will last quite a while (with some restraint on the owners part), so maybe the cost per drink might be competitive with wine. We also tasted some very nice Armagnac, Calvados, and a Rum which was different than anything I’ve ever tasted. So much to learn, so little time..
And, this weekend is the annual Oyster Festival, home of the National Oyster Shucking Championships as well as the expanding “cook off”. It appears that the weather will supply typical oyster festival conditions, which usually results in rain and wind. But, oysters are a cold season food anyway, so come on out to the St. Mary’s County Fairgrounds and have a great time. Oysters any way you like them, and plenty of cold beer (I think including Guinness) to wash everything down. I’ll be in the main beer stand in the mornings and timing shuckers in the afternoon. After that I don’t know if I’ll
DFD
On a more pleasant note, I happened on a little Scotch tasting last night. It was conducted by Gordon Wright, a near legendary distiller of single malt scotch whiskeys, who started “Alchemist” He was a charming host, and gave a very understandable little talk on the processes involved and why there is such a variation in single malts. What barrels are used for aging, the amount of peat smoke in the malting of the barley, barrel aging, and even the air (which I am not sure I believe) all result in the wide range of tastes and “nose”. I am not particularly a single malt guy, but I did find one I very much liked, called Bruichladdich (I believe roughly pronounced “broo laddie”. Prices can be pretty steep, but on the other hand, a bottle will last quite a while (with some restraint on the owners part), so maybe the cost per drink might be competitive with wine. We also tasted some very nice Armagnac, Calvados, and a Rum which was different than anything I’ve ever tasted. So much to learn, so little time..
And, this weekend is the annual Oyster Festival, home of the National Oyster Shucking Championships as well as the expanding “cook off”. It appears that the weather will supply typical oyster festival conditions, which usually results in rain and wind. But, oysters are a cold season food anyway, so come on out to the St. Mary’s County Fairgrounds and have a great time. Oysters any way you like them, and plenty of cold beer (I think including Guinness) to wash everything down. I’ll be in the main beer stand in the mornings and timing shuckers in the afternoon. After that I don’t know if I’ll
DFD
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