Rivers..

doing/chronicling again....,


Our travels Sunday found us on the banks of two rivers, the Missouri to begin with and the Mighty Mississippi to end. We left the Marriott in STL in a spacious coach (coach, not a bus) and headed west along I70 to St. Charles. It, like our more familiar St. Mary’s City, was another “First Capitol”. We had a very nice tour of the restored city on their little trolley:



with commentary by a very knowledgeable guide, a lady who has been doing it for 25 years and really knows her history of St. Charles.



A complicated one it is, with the city being under rule of the Spain, France, and then the Germans. As you all know, it entered the Union as a state in 1821 as part of the Missouri Compromise. Accordingly there are buildings that display characteristics of all its mixed heritage, and several examples of each were pointed out. We then were “turned loose” for lunch and shopping. We met FOJTE and wife for a lovely lunch at the Garden Café ala Fleur, a little place with a large patio which the weather allowed us to take advantage of. We were seated not far from the spot where Lewis and Clark started their famous expedition (we know knew). The fare was sort of standard café offerings, sandwiches from Reuben’s to Burgers, salads from Caesars to fruit, and a few small plates. We were immediately informed that Tiffany would be taking care of us for lunch. Oh, well, it’s a friendly small town. We decided on a cheese plate to start with, and ordered drinks. I found a Bell’s Two Hearted Ale, an IPA style (beer brewed in the UP of Michigan) of beer with a lovely label of a rainbow trout. I noticed after my second bottle that it was 7% alcohol. MFO went with a Mirassou Chardonnay (a disappointment) and FOJTE took a Paulaner Oktoberfest Ale, and his wife chose some Peach Iced Tea. Service was, well, slow, but it was a pleasant afternoon and a good people watching place. We shooed tiffany off a couple of times and then ordered a half and half for the flutters (white chicken chili/reuben; potato soup/tuna salad;) a bowl of same for MFOJTE, and a wrap with raspberry chipotle (which was nice to pronounce) for FOJTE. After another longish wait the cheese arrived, somewhat disappointing, but still an okay starter, and after another interlude the food appeared. It was pretty good, especially the soups. A pleasant afternoon and after a couple of those 7% beers, the gentle coach ride to Hannibal seemed pleasing.

We started out on 70 west bound. We were impressed by the development of western STL which now extends to Wentzville without cessation of strip malls, centers, various little businesses, almost everything but trees and fields. We could remember when Wentzville was “out there”. Turning north on US61 the sprawl finally gave way to rolling hills and some color although rain showers were intermittent. Along the way our trip leader gave us some background on Hannibal and Samuel Clemens. A little nap interceded somewhere in there, and after coming through the “new” part of Hannibal we arrived at the historic part of the city. Our accommodations there were scheduled to be at a riverfront B&B, which was resurrected from its former life as a well, look at the color of the light over the sign.



Trepidation began to creep in as we ascended a stair to the rooms, which confirmed their former use. Just a hall with a series of doors, with colorful names.







We were given the purple passion room, and although it contained a shower which some of the rooms did not, was a bit, well, rustic.




We reluctantly accepted the room and changed into duds appropriate to DFD and then attended a little reception in the board room of Samuel Clemens’ boyhood home museum. We had sort of a private tour, seeing some of the original Norman Rockwell illustrations used in The Adventures of Tom Sawyer.

We then walked a block down the street to the Ole Plantation Restaurant, which has been in business since 1976.



They are not usually open Sunday evenings, but made an allowance for our tour party. I think my “just fits” comes into play here. It’s obviously a long time venue, and has lots of pictures of “the old days” on the walls together with various memorabilia. Being a typical river town, floods play a large part in their culture, and there were scenes of high water, and the owner showed us how all the outlets were place on walls above a pretty healthy flood stage. We were seated at a single long table, with paper place mats (conveniently giving us the number for Shawn’s Bobcat Service, a dog grooming service, and a couple of local gift shops), and rolled up silver. Their specialty is smoked meats, and this evening our choices were: Beef, Ham, Brats, or Pork. That’s it. Pick your protein. All else falls out. MFO ordered the Pork, and I took the Brats. There was an iceberg salad bar (fits) and a selection of Bud products along with Fitz’s soft drinks. Sides were not elective and included green beans with bacon and onion (and garlic?), corn, and potato salad. After all selections were made and trips to the salad bar completed, entrees started to arrive (five at a time!). Just fits, the beans and corn were of the canned variety, the potato salad Germanic with vinegar, air bread on the table. MFO’s pork was generous and cut in long strips with sauce, and I was surprised that my Brat was just that, only one brat, not Johnsonville length, but maybe almost a foot long. It was nicely browned and had some very mild Kraut atop. The flavor of the Brat was not spiced at all, but had a nice beefy taste. Dessert was included either a German chocolate or apple pie. MFO did the chocolate, and I the apple. Winner me, fresh juicy apples. Since we were the only patrons of the restaurant, the owner gave us a little history of the town and the restaurant’s role. A fun evening, showing the advantages of being a part of a group

Tomorrow we recount the evening's rest at LuLa Belles and our re acquaintance with the railroads and its result, plus Today's (Monday’s) adventures. Oh yeah, we were more than

DFD

Tour Law?

A legal question to begin our journey to the Midwest: Who owns the armrests in airplanes? The answer on Southwest yesterday appears to be the window and aisle seaters. Through some quirk in the highly automated SW seating system, MFO and I (finally – “See agent at gate for seating”) were issued passes Nos. C20 and 21. The last person allowed down the jetway was number C23. “All seats are full, please put all carryons under seats”. All of this resulted in two hours of agony shoehorned into a middle seat in almost a fetal postion with basically arms crossed in front of me and toes fetched up against laptop and camera bags. MFO had a similar experience in some other part of the airplane. “Have a nice flight!”

Before boarding the airplane from Hell, we were treated to see a plane load of WWII vets arrive, to a standing ovation. There were several active military folks around and they all came over and shook the hands of the vets. A touching scene…



Thus began our “Twain Tour”, bringing us to St. Louis yesterday, and then on to Hannibal today. After the effects of the airplane wore off we had a nice time with our other travelers and seeing some sights of good old home town St. Louis. After checking in to the nice Marriott here by Harry’s on Jefferson we took the hotel shuttle down to the old court house, did a little tour there, and then wandered down to the Arch.





Being a lovely day, I didn’t join the majority who wanted to “do” the underground museum and tram to the top, but just wandered around with my camera.





Somebody replaced all the young trees with mature ones while we were gone!



As the weather cooled we headed back to the Hotel, and started to deal with dinner. The specter of a “tour” brings the “group dinner” into play. We did a quick call to Trattoria Marcella, and as expected was told that two could be served no earlier than 8:30, so we decided to cast our lot with the group. They’re a fun bunch, so not a problem. Some had heard of the Schlafly Tap Room, and since it was in the three mile “Free Zone” we were again able to use the hotel shuttle, and ten of us packed in the van and off we went. St. Louis residents might remember that Shlafly is an old St. Louis name associated with beer (along with that “other” St. Louis company). They have renovated an 1904 building and it now houses their brewpub. The place is huge and easily swallows apparently any amount of visitors as it was pretty packed but although we had to break into separate parties, we were seated immediately. High ceilings, brick walls, many people means, LOUD. And it was. Although seated across a two top from MFO conversation was strained: “What?” “What’ll you have?” What?”. The menu is basically bar food although they call it “European inspired Pub Fare”. Lots of Apps, soups, salads, sandwiches, and large plates. Oddly enough no flat breads or pizzas. The appetizers have some interesting entries, Bangers and Mash, Smoked Liverwurst, Steak Frites, all appear. We selected a “meat and cheese” platter for starters along with a couple of glasses of Wyndham Estates Shiraz and Toasted Head Merlot (and yes, I know it was a brew pub). Later I found the beer list attached to the wall. For dinner I had the (whoops we’re out of the grilled steak sandwich) roast beef sandwich, and MFO took an interesting looking “Fried Egg and Ham Toastie’.

Our platter of meats arrived before the wines, and it was very good. It had about 12 things scattered around a chopping block, several sausages, some nicely pickled carrots, cauliflower, asparagus, and some huntsman cheese, with an ample amount of toasted bread slices. Could almost have made a meal of that. Very nice for 9 bucks.

Sandwiches were one for two, MFO’s ham thing was very nice. It actually appeared that they carved the ham from a ham rather than lunch meat and the warm potato salad was sharp with vinegar and plenty of bacon. The eggs were still a bit runny, a good sign from the kitchen. She deconstructed it and just ate the innards. Other choice was vinegar slaw. No fries here. My shaved roast beef was dried out and gray, I guess a testament to “slow roasted” description on the menu. The roll it was served on was not distinguished. I accompanied it with a glass of American Pale Ale which was refreshing.

There were a wide array of other diners/eaters, some of which were in Indianapolis Colts garb. (The Colts will destroy the home town Rams today). The gentleman next to us had sort of a dunce cap woolen affair that never was removed with a big horseshoe embroidered on it. Travel and touring and the acoustics finally wore us out, and we returned to the Hotel just in time to learn the Spartans avoided handing the Hawkeyes their first season loss on the last play of the game. Way to go, Sparty..

So today we “do” St. Charles, and then bus to Hannibal for what will surely be a big adventure. Tonight we’re staying at LuLu’s bed and breakfast.. not sure about food accommodations, but whatever, we’ll be

DFD

On the road again....

Well, here we go again.. about to depart for an adventure in the Midwest, including a couple of days with a group from Historic St. Mary’s City in Hannibal focusing on Samuel Clemens. We’re then going to stay a couple of extra days in STL to see FOJTE and Y, and have a joint culinary experience.

Yesterday I received what will be my last issue of Gourmet magazine. I had been anticipating it figuring there would be a reprise of the last 40 years or so of publication, maybe a lament by Ruth Richl, something to mark it’s passing. Nope. The standard November picture of a brown turkey on the cover, this year’s twist on thanksgiving articles, you’d never know it was the last. Sort of disappointing, going out with a whimper as it were. Time marches on.

So we’ll try to document our progress, include some photos and I think there will be ample material for the feeder..

Hopefully the internet will be more accessible this time..and we’re taking duds to

DFD

As You Like it...

We recently had a guest over for dinner at the digs. Since the weather was reasonably good, we unfroze a couple of steaks from Nick’s and decided we would grill them. We got some baking potatoes, and some mushrooms for a sauce (more later), together with some greens for a salad, just a homey dinner focused on conversation and companionship, hopefully aided by some good chow.

Having dined with our guest before, we knew that there was a preference for “well done” steaks. After a couple of glasses of wine, we got into a discussion on “how do you like your steaks?”. Our guest apologized for wanting it cooked that way, and recounted how there have been times in restaurants where recriminations were made for ordering it that way. I know there are sometimes asterisks on menus leading to some comment about how they cannot guarantee the quality of a steak cooked past medium, yadda yadda, and often will punish the person by serving up a hunk of (often butterflied) charred leather from the blazing grill. What crap. You know what? It is possible to cook a steak to pinkish gray or even gray without completely burning it. It might take a little more care and attention, but it can be done. A kitchen should be able to respond. True, there may not be as much juice with it, but that’s when a good sauce will help. It seems to be popularly believed that the best steak must be rare, and oozing blood to be a “real steak”. Whoops! There’s that word again! – Best.

Well, what’s best for this person is a well done but not destroyed piece of meat. They know what they’re going to get, and that’s what they want. Nobody should be put down for wanting something different from what you might personally prefer. A restaurant is there to give you what you want, not what they want you to have. If they can’t supply it, they shouldn’t be in business. Nobody should ever have to be embarrassed or apologize for ordering what they want and how they want it prepared: “Of course. Thank you, we’ll take care of it.”

As for our protein, Penzey’s Chicago Steak Seasoning was applied about 20 minutes prior to cooking, the grill preheated (as much as my pitiful grill will allow), and I committed the steak to the hottest (as much as my pitiful grill will allow) part of the grill just long enough to mark it and form a little caramelization. I then flipped it to a cooler portion of the grill and allowed it to cook further without forming any more crusting. I left it there until the press test (and okay, the instant read thermometer) indicated a wellish done consistency and temperature, and transferred it to a platter in the warming drawer for about 15 minutes while we enjoyed the salad. I sliced the steaks diagonally in about a half of an inch slices. The meat was moist and a very nice light gray color with a nice crust. I fanned it on the plate, applied the mushroom sauce and it was much enjoyed. Not all that hard.

Oh, the sauce was pretty good. Just some sliced mushrooms sautéed in (lots) of butter until they were nice a moisty brown, added some heavy cream and about a half teaspoon of fresh chopped tarragon, a spoonful of Dijon, salt and pepper and allowed it to reduce until a good consistency. Starch was the standard baked potato and sour cream. Why mess with success.. . Voila! Nice meal all around. Good friends, food, and wine (Solomons Island Winery ’07 “Maryland Artist Series” Cab Franc/Merlot) and all were

DFD

PS: There is a concert today at noon in St. Mary's Hall at St. Mary's College - Bach, Beethoven, Brian (Ganz) and Beverly (Babcock) - along with friends Jose Cueto (violin) and Suzanne Orban (cello). More nothing to do....

Lunch on the go...

A busy week leading up to the trip to MO this week, so probably hit and miss publication

A couple of lunches (I notice that retirement seems to elevate lunch chances) lately, probably worth commenting on. The first was at Coffee Quarter in the ever changing milieu of the dining scene in San Souci. Their update is that they now offer beer and wine, which can’t hurt anybody. I am not sure if the menu has been revamped as well, but there is a lunch and dinner side of the same sheet of paper. Dinner centers on “tapas”, and also offers pizzas, sushi (?!), crab sliders, a pork loin with apple slaw, and other “little plates”, along with sandwiches and salads. We used the Luncheon side, which offers at least 13 sandwiches (dubbed “gourmet”) along with salads and those pizzas. I know they used to feature Boar’s Head products, and I assume they still do, although I noticed that the description of the “ovengold turkey breast” sandwich claimed it was home baked. Hmmmm —how’s that work? Anyway, I ordered a Reuben (and a Dogfish Head ale), while my companion had some soup of the day and the Hummus with Tabbouleh salad. In true coffee house fashion, the existence of your order is signaled by calling out your name: “Bill!!” and you go pick it up at the counter. My Reuben was nicely put together, with what looked a whole lot like BH corned beef, on rye along with the cheese and kraut. The soup was reported as very good, but the Hummus was the best dish. Creamy Hummus with pita points, and the green tabbouleh made a for very nice light luncheon dish, nicely paired with the soup. The beer was cold and good. The day we were there, it was fairly busy, but there were no delays in service. Another option for the ever popular lunch.

My second lunch was with MFO at Panera, the occasion mostly engendered by wanting to further investigate the demons that seem tohave infested my laptop causing random and whimsical connections to the internet. I could not connect at CQ, and wanted to try another network, and reports are that Panera’s is robust. Since there are 4 order takers, those unfamiliar with the drill at Panera are almost immediately confronted with somebody wanting to take your order. The “menu” consists of large board posted behind them so you have to look up and try to figure out where the hell the sandwiches and salads and luncheon “stuff” are. MFO cleverly avoided the awkward gawking by ordering a “new” barbeque chopped chicken salad advertised on a board as we walked in. I, on the other hand was wallowing around in the “Café”; “Panini”; and “Signature” sandwiches, trying to figure out what the difference was. There is also “hand tossed signature” and “hand tossed café” salads. What’s up with that? Why can’t there be just sandwiches and salads. Leave the adjectives out please. Who cares? In fairness, I must report that soups are just soups. Not “slow simmered” or anything, but they’re probably working on that. Anyway I panicked into the Asiago Roast Beef (which is signature, by the way), described as: “Oven-roasted beef, smoked cheddar, lettuce, tomatoes, red onions & creamy horseradish sauce, on our Asiago Cheese Demi”. Okay fine. We chose drinks and chips, and now exhausted by the ordeal, shuffle down the line, Soup Nazi style with paper in hand to the receiving end. By the time we selected our table our number was being called, amazingly fast service. Always taking data, I noticed that the numbers are seemingly random. Our 4361 was called after 1545, and the next one was 3617. Maybe a scheme I am not aware of. Anyway, the fast food, was, well, fast. My sandwich looked hastily put together, and the “smoked cheddar” was in the form of a velveeta like square, lopping out both sides. The red onions were not particularly sliced, rather in long strands. The “oven roasted” beef looked again like luncheon meat. But, it did have some taste. The bread was fine and crunchy. I looked, but didn’t see any signature anyplace. MFO’s salad was a pile of greens, with some “roasted corn” scattered about, some of that chopped chicken and a squirt bottle application of BBQ sauce atop. Portions were rather large. I did see one of those hollowed out bread bowls of soup go by. Sheesh. I guess people still eat those things. Anyway, if you want in and out, processed, there you go food, visit. Probably fairly consistent. Oh, I was able to hook to their net. Go figure. Demons asleep and not

DFD