Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Flying time and turkeys....


As some long, long, time readers will recall from the early days of the bottom feeder when it appeared at the bottom (get it?) of my daily aircraft status, I was often given to say “where does the time go?” well that would apply to this year.  Between the pool deck production, the Hospital Gala set up, execution and follow on, Thanksgiving is right on our doorstep and we’re leaving for a (hopefully) quiet weekend in just a few hours.  A report will follow…

So my usual Thanksgiving report has kind of taken a back seat.  I have done most of the initial research, but that “time” has run away (not to mention MFO urging me to hurry up), before I could make my usual insightful report, and so I am going to take the unprecedented step of making some quick observations and including my raw and unorganized notes which you might browse or completely ignore..

A few generalizations that came to me while browsing the magazines:

  1. Turkey is the meat of choice, didn’t find many (any?) beef or lamb roasts.
  2. Herb Roasted is by far the recipe/method of choice, simple rubs and butter on the outside.
  3. Elaborate preparations seem to have (finally!) gone by the wayside, brining is as complicated as it gets.  There is no flipping or turning, or deconstruction. Mostly just throw the bird in the oven until the famous “internal temperature in the thickest part of the thigh reaches 165 (to 170)”
  4. Generally start at higher temp then reduce; only one “tenting” method found.
  5. Wines were pretty much left unmentioned except for the piece on the Hudson Valley Ranch.  One publication recommended beer! DWTHYL prevails.
  6. Root vegetables are very popular, mostly roasted.
  7. Stuffings vary, but cornbread (with maybe sausage) seems most popular (except for good old Saveur which uses oysters)
  8. Too damn much use of sweet potatoes (yes a personal bias).
  9. Pies are good.  Simple.
  10. 2012 most useful "guide" Bon Appetit
  11. Too much froo froo: Martha (make your own tablecloth)
  12. Most unique - Saveur 
This leads me to believe that the foodie mags are finally coming around to my position that making a big deal out of preparing the turkey (free range, brine in juniper berries, temp up, temp down, flip, etc.) is largely a waste of time.  Roast it at ~325 for a while (yes, mindful of internal temps) and you get an edible product.  All the other crap doesn’t have much effect.

If you want to get creative, do it with the sides.  Don’t waste time on the bird.

 Thanksgiving Bottom Line

Simple is a good thing.  Toiling away in the kitchen defeats what is the real purpose of “Thanksgiving”.  It is just that.  A time to give thanks for being with friends and family, remembering those who were present in the past and are now just present in thoughts.   Think about all the dedicated service people that are far from those friends and families eating a thanksgiving dinner in a strange land, perhaps in tents, making our lives here secure.  So prepare as simply or complicated as you wish, but use the dinner as a convener of people, not an end in itself.  Enjoy, and Bon Appetit!!  Oh yeah, you still have to

DFD

************************************************************************
Research notes:

Thanksgiving Thoughts, 2012

COOK’S ILLUSTRATED, Nov/Dec 2012 (number 119)
TURKEY (usual engineer approach)
Pg 6: Classic Roast Turkey on the grill
Starts off by complaining about late dinner due to turkey..
No sooty or smoky flavors
Charcoal ring of fire -  don’t open grill during cooking.. lit coals on top of unlit…crisp-skin Secrets..
Rub, let stand 24 – 48 hours..
3 hours on charcoal..
SIDES
Roasted root vegetables..

FOOD & WINE November 2012

Cover: The Ultimate Thanksgiving – 3 turkeys, 20 fantastic sides; 9 delicious desserts., including the most amazing herb-roasted turkey.
TURKEY
Pg 158 – Thanksgiving on the (Hudson) ranch – napa valley
Beautiful people grinning..
Hudson vineyards
Turkey: herb roasted: 400 degrees down to 325
Wine Hudson ranch syrah.. matches herbs, mushroom, etc. 
Pg  74 – Wood worker; Wood Smoked Turkey;  brined 24 hours, 5 hours in a smoker
Wine fresh berry – rich medium bodied Pinot
Pg 100 – part of the Handbook.. beer brined turkey; brine uses Guinness!!
Brine 24 hours
350° bacon on breast, remove 3 hours total
Smoky peppery syrah
SIDES
Cornbread/bacon stuffing; sausage, apple, and cranberry nut bread
WINE
Pg 136 Wine Pairing – how to solve tricky wine-pairing dilemmas
Nothing to do with thanksgiving.

 BON APPETIT November 2012
Cover: the ultimate guide to thanksgiving – a 42 page step – by – step game plan;  How to brine roast & grill the juiciest bird
Not a bad layout: turkey; gravy; dressings; sides; salad; potatoes; desserts;
TURKEY
Pg 76 – For the traditionalist – herb roasted turkey: rosemary sage thyme butter rub.   Start 450 reduce to 325.  About 2 hours
Pg 78 – For the anti traditionalist – Grill Roasted.  Charcoal, optional chips
Pg 80:  for the Neo – traditionalist.  A simple roast turkey mirin and soy…
SIDES
Pg 84 dressings: simple is best; Italian mother in law; bread sausage and pecan;
Pg 86 veggies: roasted sweet potatoes; creamed peas; sweet pot with bourbon maple; Brussels sprouts with shallots and salt pork; mashed root vegetables with bacon vinaigrette;
Salads: various
Potatoes: whipped with horseradish; mini herbed pommes anna;
WINES: Pg 34 – Beer!


SOUTHERN LIVING – November 2012
Cover: Thanksgiving Celebrations; 93 holiday recipes – Southern Style Turkeys
TURKEY
Pg 81 the most southern thanksgiving ever.. nice; herb roasted turkey, herb butter rub; 400 to 325 for 3 hours; back up to 325; cornbread dressing with smoked bacon and pecans; Fried Collards and Apples
Pg 88 texas meat ‘n three:  Grilled turkey breast; roasted carrot and avocado salad; cauliflour galletes with chipotle crème fraiche; poblanos stuffed with goat cheese mashed potatoes
Pg 90 low country meat ‘n three: Turkey tenderloins with Madeira gravy; sprouts with bacon; orange glazed sweet potatoes; cornbread and country ham Dressing;

 
MARTHA STEWART LIVING – November 2012
Cover: American Made Awards Pies and Sides plus the ultimage Thanksgiving Dinner
Table of contents page: lists photographer; food styling; prop styling credits!!
TURKEY
Maple glazed turkey with gravy:  broth and maple syrup 1 ½ cups reduced to ¾ cup!  Applied during last hour of cooking... 425, then reduce to 350;
SIDES
Smashed root vegetables with caramelized Leeks; creamed greens with chestnuts; Herbed cracker stuffing
Don’t like organization.  Recipes all grouped together at end (p. 185), makes it difficult to read..

 SAVEUR – November 2012
Cover:  32 Holiday Dishes, seasonal favorites old and new from herb roasted turkey to luscious pumpkin cheesecake.
TURKEY
p.68  Thanksgiving feast on Virginia eastern shore!  Herb Roasted turkey with Hominy, Oyster, and Sausage Dressing… oven at 450 throughout!!  4 hours!! (16 Lb Turkey)
SIDES
Roasted Oysters with Green Tomato Pickle and Cranberry Horseradish relish; Creamed Spinach with Spiced bread crumbs..okra pickles..

 

No comments: