a MUCH better day... in two parts

After our harrowing day on the byways of several states (shucking out money like popcorn, we had a so-so (lateish) dinner in the hotel, so “so - so” in fact that I forgot what I had.  Only comment on that experience was that we heard the word “ABsoLUTEly!!!!!!” many more times than I wanted, and they changed the linens on the table right next to us while we were dining (or more like eating in this case).  

 

Anyway here's a long description of the next day.. feel free to absorb it in pieces and parts..

 

Part the First

But mercifully that all faded the next day. MFO went off to her “Out of the Ordinary – Preserving Paper – Based Ephemera” workshop at the Rhode Island School of Design, and after lollygagging around the hotel room for a while, I took the relatively short drive down to Newport.  As with most of the roads (parkways, turnpikes, expressways) out east, you kind of “pay as you go” and for a mere $4, you are allowed to cross the Claiborne Pell Newport Bridge into the town of Newport. 

It is (what I perceive to be) a typical New England seaport town. I am not sure I would use the word “quaint” but something along those lines would apply.  I did a little driving tour to orient myself, and decide where parking was appropriate.  Guess what?  Parking is something like three bucks for the first half hour, and goes on from there.  Anyway, I found a lot reasonably near my intended destination, got my little ticket and headed for Bannister’s Wharf

Which is home to a few restaurants,

and of course many of those little “gifty” shops with nautical stuff, local memorabilia, along with some reasonably nice clothing.  Since the hour was a bit early (not quite eleven) I strolled around a bit looking at the scenery to fill the time before lunch

Based on some tips and a little research (more on that later), I had decided to take lunch at a restaurant called “Black Pearl”, which was touted to have some of the best chowder (okay, chowwww daaa) and seafood in Newport if not the whole of New England.  Black Pearl is housed inside a long pierside building

There are two dining choices: inside or outside.  "inside" options are the "Tavern" (which is what you would expect) and the adjoining "Commodore’s Room" which is a more formal dining space (with separate menu).  In addition to those rooms, there is the even less formal outside dining area (and a bar) which was being prepared for the lunch trade

After some debate (and thoughts of dermatology) I opted for inside dining and was seated along the wall in the Tavern.  Given they had only just opened, I was probably the second table occupied. The decor was prettyt much what you might expect for waterside tavern dining, rustic with lots of wood, and nautical charts on the walls

I was given a menu (and a nice glass of Sonoma Cutrer Chardonnay - it was almost noon by then) by the nameless lady, relaxed and sort of sipped and settled in.  Besides the menu items there was a board on the wall with daily specials, which, given it was written with that kind of bluish neon crayon on a blacklight background,  I had no chance to comprehend it without getting up.  The printed luncheon menu had a bewildering number of categories and items such as appetizers, eggs and omelets, salads, grilled sandwiches, regular sandwiches, burgers, entrees, too much to consider.  I didn’t want to spend time poring over the menu, so nice lady read me the blue and black board which contained a grilled mountain rainbow trout (okay, not seafood exactly) with a buerre blanc, rice and sautéed julienned vegetables.  That, along with a cup of chowder made up my decision.

The “famous” cup of chowder arrived along with a grind of fresh pepper

And some crackers (not “oyster” as I expected, but don’t know what is traditional there).  The little "slop over" was how it was brought to the table, not due to my slovenly eating habits. If I were to be critical, I would allow it shouldn't have left the kitchen that way.  After it cooled enough to enjoy, it was very good.  Not so glutinous as some of the stuff you get around here, but had a very nice consistency.  Nor was it overly salty, just a nice balance of consistency and flavor.  The clams were not whole, and in fact you had to work a little to find them as they were cut fairly small, but were present.  I am not an expert on clam chowder, nor widely experienced, but this was very good.

The trout arrived (with a second glass of wine) and had very nice flavor, obviously grilled with smoky notes.  The rice wasn’t blown out and the vegetables were fresh.  I would have preferred a little lighter hand with the sauce on the fish. 

 

 

All in all it was a good lunch.  It's hard to know what to expect.  I would like to have had time to explore other places, including one that looked interesting called the “Spiced Pear” on the other side of town.  It was more of an upscale place, maybe better for dinner.  Perhaps next time.  On the way back to the car I fulfilled a request to obtain locally distilled Rum, but that merits its own story.

So back in the car, and another four bucks got me back on the highway and arrived at the Marriott in time for a little nap and relaxation.   Which led to:

 

Part the Second

Since MFO would be done with her workshop around five this would be our (only) chance for a nice dinner in Providence.   New town, no background, no friends, so where do you go for one shot?  Certainly not to the front desk with “what’s a good place to eat around here?”; although that is sometimes helpful if you gage the person behind the desk. 

Anyway, I find that I tend to use Yelp a lot (as opposed to trip advisor, urban spoon, chow hound, etc.).  It may be that familiarity helps but I have found Yelp to be fairly reliable.  I generally search first for “restaurants near…..” and try to weed them a bit by price to eliminate Pizza Huts and the ilk, or use “top rated”.  Once the top few show up I do read the reviews quite a bit.  I try to kind of take the average because there is always a “worst meal I’ve ever had” in there and maybe ten to the contrary.

 

I found a place named Chez Pascal that continued to be praised, which was characterized as a French bistro kind of thing with an attractive (culinary wise) menu (yes, I do look).   They seemed to stress local sources (which is getting maybe too common) and have an adjoining “Wurst Kitchen” featuring Charcuterie..  Okay good!  I called (before Newport) and left a message and was called back that afternoon by a nice lady who said yes, they would be glad to have a table for us at 6:45.  So after MFO arrived back at the hotel (via their shuttle) we got DFD’d, and the nice hotel shuttle person drove us out to the restaurant, which was out of their normal “zone”.  Nice young man..

We were dropped near the restaurant (street construction a nightmare of wrong way one way streets nearby).  It was on a street corner in a mostlhy residential district.

We went inside to find a warming room with small tables (yes, with the paper square on top), and were offered a table at a banquette on one wall with a good view of the rest of the place

There was a nice buzz about the room, seemingly mostly occupied by locals.  A few of the younger ones were NOT DFD’d to my liking, but most were appropriately attired.  A server approached with the menu, and a beverage list.  No speeches, just sort of talking to you like you were a guest in her home.  Hi, how are you...  While there, she did point out that there was a special fresh asparagus salad (wrong table for that!!), and that a fish dish which specified Yellow Fin Flounder on the menu was now a similar preparation with fresh caught Ocean Perch.  She left us alone (she had a bunch of tables) with the menus and some very nice sliced baguettes. All the pre dinner kind of drinks were on the wine list was quite nice, with a good selection old and new world wines, and very reasonable prices.  However, given the fact that we were to face the New York traffic in the morning, we decided against a full bottle and instead MFO ordered a glass of Viognier which she is quite fond of.   And, get this, the Feeder did NOT have a DMOTRWAT for once!.  Many of the reviews of the place lauded their cocktails, so I thought: Damn It!  I’ll try something new!  One of the specialty drinks that caught my eye was called a “Clayburn Martini” which wasn’t packed with Mango Nectar, or Grapefruit Juice, froo froo and the like (if you can’t see through it… etc.).   So i ordered that and was VERY pleased with it to the point that I am going to make a special post about it (and my Rum experience in Newport). The Menu itself contained a nice selection of choices with something for most any taste (only seven entrees).  Besides the drinks we ordered a (three) cheese plate). During the ordering I found another mark of a good restaurant.  MFO was attracted to the duck entrée: “slow roasted half duck with parsnip purée, roasted turnips, carrots, & a sour cherry sauce”, not so much for the duck as for the rest of the items that accompanied it.  So she asked the server if she could have the grilled marinated skirt steak, but the  puree, turnips, etc., that came with the duck.  Without a moment’s hesitation, the answer was “yes, of course!”.  Not “I’ll have to check”, nor “Sorry we can’t do that”. Just “yes of course”.

We (really) enjoyed our drinks, and soon the lovely cheese plate arrived

A very nice selection of freshly cut cheese, and of course now I can’t remember anything about them but “cow, goat, cow”, even though each was carefully explained along with their place of origin.  The little bits of relish (apple, pear, raddicio “slaw”) and darling little crackers were great along with the breads.  I just love cheese...  Entrees followed in about the right time and guess what?  They actually knew who had what without asking!!  Everything was very good.  Here’s my perch

sitting atop the turnip puree, roasted fennel, citrus and wilted ramps.  And as of course you know, ramps are a seasonal item not found everywhere, and are considered a spring delicacy.  Was a great dish.  I had a glass of Barbera (DWTHYL), and MFO nursed the Viognier with her steak and duck trimmings.  A traditionalist would say we should have switched.  Nope we were both happy.  During the meal an eye was turned in our direction as our server passed by, but the only intrusion was for full water glasses.  No, “How is everything?”  no need, they knew it was good.  No “are ya still werkin’ on that?”  just “may I clear?” when we were done.  We were tempted by much more complicated desserts but settled for a blood orange sorbet and two spoons. 

All in all a wonderful meal.  Lunch was good, this was great.  The hotel shuttle arrived fairly smartly after we called, and so ended a much, much better day than the previous one.  And it ended as it should

DFD