Thursday, September 19, 2013

Up the Mont... or not


Next course…

We left the copper cookware place with spirits high (and pockets lighter) and headed for Mont Saint-Michel, and the ancient abbey.  It has been a stronghold throughout history and naturally a tourist destination.  So our coach was one of many, and we were just one of several other groups.  Sightseeing loomed, but the first order of business was….. Lunch!  Several of our party went into a place that featured Moules, but MFO and I along with another couple selected another place with a unique menu item.

On the way, our guide Loic said that the area around the Mont was quite tidal with lots of marshes.  On these marshes, sheep are raised, and due to the tidal action, the vegetation has a high salt content.   This is reflected in the meat and “salt meadow lamb” is considered a regional delicacy.  We found a restaurant across from the mussel place called “le Pré Salé” which features such lamb, along with local seafood and the famous Mont Saint Michel Omelet .  So we split from the group, went over and were pleasantly surprised to find it a pleasant white tablecloth, quiet place with crystal glassware (for wine).  We settled in and ordered some welcome beverages.




Time was a bit of a factor so we just had main courses (it was lunch, remember) of a warm goat cheese salad (Salade de Chévre Chaud), Millefeuilles de Rilletes of Scallops, and the male contingent went for the salt meadow Cotes d’Agneau.  Charger plates were removed, bread, proper silver delivered (sharp knives, fish knives, forks, etc), and soon the food arrived, the lamb



Along with the scallops



The lamb indeed did reflect the salt meadows (not overpowering) but it did require you to sort of sort out the meat from the fat. Following the meal, a sweet tooth couldn’t be denied and a dessert was ordered.  It was quite a production.



Incidentally, we found this extravagance on dessert to be fairly common.  This in the land of tarts and patisserie..  interesting.

Upon exiting we rejoined the group, in front of one of the local statuaries.  No explanation, but interesting..



We boarded a little courtesy bus that took you “close” to the Mont.  After that it was on foot.



Now, one will note that there is a lot of “vertical development” to the Abbey.  As with all of these ancient fortifications, height is a distinct defensive advantage.  This of course turns into (at least for us) a distinct disadvantage for the visitors. Once the group was inside, we were joined by a charming guide who explained that there were many, many,  many steps involved in getting to the top.



It was at this point that the feeder had a decision to make.. tough it out knowing that the knees would object to the trip down, or realize that you can't do things you used to do easily.  In probably what will become a more regular decision, I reluctantly decided I would not join the group.

So, off they went


(hut, hut, hut)
 
Or rather, “up” they went, and I was by myself feeling slightly guilty.  The Mont is not only the home of the abbey,  but it contains a small city of narrow streets
 

 

Which contain not only the usual kitschy little shops but also a lot of purveyors of food and drink



Menus are displayed in the streets, and by now, I would hope you could figure out at least the main dishes on this one



It turns out that there is a very famous place within the walls: "Mère Poulard opened her inn on Mont Saint Michel in 1888 and created the famous omelette that is known in France and throughout the whole world". People go in to have the omelette at a hefty price of about fifty Euros (it's big enough to share).  Current reviews of the place are not kind, but of course you go to say you did it and for the ambiance.  Anyway, I sought it out



They have kind of an open kitchen where you can see the famous egg dish being prepared and made



 
open wood fueled fire with several omelettes cooking
 
And to come full circle, you know where all that copper stuff came from?  You guessed it.

Eventually the group descended from the heights, we re-gathered and headed back to the Manoir.  So it was a good lesson for me, realize what you can and cannot do, and you can find rewarding things to do within yourself....

 

 

 

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