Before the meal, a small rant..
Well, while sort of mopping up my Wales notes and images, I am
sitting here watching the (American) football games, specifically the team from
Washington and the Vikings from Minnesota.
I’m sorry, when I was coaching Hockey, there was a saying we used to
preach to our teams (and I’ve heard it repeated other places) that “there is no
“I” in team”. Apart from being literally
correct, it is a good concept. It isn’t
called a “team sport” for nothing. Too bad it doesn’t seem to take root in the
National Football Team. The current
game is (for a change) rather high scoring, and each and every touchdown,
regardless of the color of the jersey, the person pounds his chest, points to
himself, exhorts the crowd to cheer him, and generally tries to draw as much
attention to himself as possible.
Me!! And it doesn’t only involve
the players on the offensive side of the ball.
A linesman, or maybe a backer manages to tackle a runner in the
backfield, and you would think it was the game saving play in the Super
Bowl. Prancing, gloating, standing over
the downed player staring him down. Me!!
It’s all ABOUT ME!! Look what I
did!! For some silly reason, I thought
that that was what they are paid for.
In contrast, while in Cardiff, we had a chance to listen to
a rehearsal of a choir associated with the local Rugby team.
They were practicing singing the National
Anthem of some of the teams they would be playing in friendly matches, like
Fiji or South Africa. In typical Welsh
fashion when they took a break they came over us with their pints, and told us
it was common practice to sing the Anthem of the opposing team before the
match. And, commonly afterwards “fans”
from both sides gathered in pubs and enjoyed each others company. What a concept. And believe me, one of the things we learned
is that there is fierce pride in their country, those Welshmen.
The Meal...
Speaking of Wales, you will note (maybe) that I have not said
much about the food on the trip. I did fairly extensive research on restaurants
in the various cities where we stayed, and found some pretty interesting
venues. In practice we didn’t have too
many “free” evenings, as our travel hosts arranged for many group meals within
the hotels in which we resided. That dynamic
probably deserves a whole column in itself, but we did have one meal on our own
and that was outstanding. It was on the third
night of our trip, and was in the town of Deganwy, near Conwy.
The place was called Paysanne, and featured French
cuisine. It received pretty positive
reviews in TripAdvisor, which, incidentally seemed to cover the UK better than
Yelp. Anyway, I did the “contact us” tab
on their website and to my surprise received a rapid reply that they would be
looking for us, and commented that most of their guests came only a few miles
to visit rather than our thousands. So
after a day of castle visiting we arranged for a taxi, and to our surprise it
was just about outside walking distance.
The cab person didn’t seem to care.
The restaurant was located in kind of a series of row
houses, and in fact I suspect that the space started out life as just
that. It was transformed into a
restaurant but still showed the bones of its previous use.
We were seated in a corner table near the front by the
person who had corresponded with me and noted he was glad we were there. It turned out that he was the only person we
saw in the front of the house all evening.
He was very friendly but not to the point of being intrusive. He asked if we would care for a drink without
any “taking care of you ..” foolishness.
Knowing that cocktails were practically unknown before dinner in the UK,
I thought maybe a gin based one would be okay, and asked if I could have a
martini. Well, I was told, I don’t have
any dry vermouth. A bit unexpected, but
a gin and tonic would be possible. Fine.
Turning to the menu, we found some old friends there, like
starters of POTAGE DU JOUR, TERRINE DE CAMPAGNE, as well as some new ones like
CHAMPIGNON A LA PALFRAMAN (Roast field mushrooms stuffed with Stilton, bacon
and onions and wrapped in puff pastry, served with a port Coulis), plus we were
told there were Mussels Meuniere, fresh that day from Conwy, just across the
river where we were earlier in the day.
I couldn’t pass those up, and MFO decided on the “a la
Palframan”. Mains were also classically
French like Boeuf Bourgignon, Poulet Citron, and Porc a La Moutarde caught MFO’s
eye (Caramelised fillet of Welsh Pork served with a creamy Dijon Mustard sauce
with a baked apple stuffed with walnuts and sultanas). The Poisson du Jour was a fillet of Plaice,
which suited me just fine. With the
selections made, a Sancerre was certainly appropriate and was ordered.
Crusty bread accompanied the wine and helped pass the time
until the starters arrived. The mussels
were served in the traditional blue pot and lid, and were probably the best I have
ever had since Normandy.
And MFO’s mushroom dish was also lovely
It took me a while to plow through the mussels, but it would
have been impolite to not finish them.
The main dishes were equally lovely with my fish unadorned
with meaningless stuff, just fish and a sauce, simple.
And the pork was cooked and presented just right
All this time other guests arrived and we were struck by the
fact that most were known, and treated like family. Nobody was rushed, people just enjoying
themselves along with good food in a pleasant place. It is, after all what it’s all about. That dinner will remain a standout in our
memories of the journey. We had other
good food, but the whole experience was not equaled. Oh yes, we indeed were
DFD
DFD
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