The feeder is learning that gathering material for consideration takes time away from actually reporting on the material that is gathered, so we’re a bit behind, but we’ll plug on..
Our two nights away from La Crosse provided distinctly different dining opportunities. As it turned out, the first was a unique experience with food as a sidelight, and the second was the reverse, i.e., the food was the show and the experience the background. Both had their highlights. Our first was in the town of
Having done a little research, Escanaba offered three possibilities - one was a steak house which offered the opportunity cook your own steak. MFO: “you got to be kidding me!” One down. The other was “Stonehouse”, featuring steaks and chops and also the Whitefish and Walleye we were seeking. The other was House of Ludington, a venerable old hotel in the downtown area. Perusing their menu we decided that it would be first choice, especially after we viewed “stonehouse” in person.
After discovering that we lost that precious hour upon entering Michigan, we found that the leisure time had evaporated, and we were now pressed. We hoped to dine in their “King George Room” the “Finest in Elegant Dining”. We called to reserve only to find out that they were only serving in the Pub, and no, we wouldn’t need a reservation just come on down. So we quickly DFD’d, and struck out.
Have you ever used one of those internet dating services? What looks good on the web sometimes doesn’t quite match reality. So it was with the “Historic House of Ludington”, although it still had the bones, the flesh was a bit in need of paint, and some tuckpointing here and there--
Undeterred we went in, found an empty pub but were welcomed and ushered to a booth. It too had that dark paneling zapping you back in time, there were those little foot tall mannequins on the wall, and various memorabilia posted around. Our booth had the Music Master of the Coast guard for example, along with fading photos of stodgy men in suits at tables. We were approached by the (what turned out to be) the owner, offered menus, and no, there wasn’t a wine list, but would we like a drink. You bet. MFO asked about a chardonnay and was informed he had a “decent” one. I, of course did the drink test, and not wanting to delay getting alcohol, called after him “That’s Dry Vermouth you know”.
Upon returning with a perfectly prepared drink he informed me (in a nice way) that he was insulted that I said that. Turns out that dry manhattens are quite common in the North, although probably brandy more than whiskey. He said that “perfect” manhattens were next, followed by “regular (sweet vermouth) ones. I also discovered a little trend that has been followed so far. The sizeable glass was filled with ice cubes so much so that maybe three sips pretty much completed the drink. Anyway, getting down to food we discovered that indeed Whitefish and Walleye were on the menu along with other staples, most with some flourish. We were informed that the soup of the day was Chowder, and the vegetable was stewed cabbage (!). For starters we ordered “deep fried pickles” and MFO took the broiled whitefish, with side salad, French fries, and I did the chowder with the “lightly breaded sautéed Walleye with feta and fresh tomato, and although not maybe appropriate, the “Cheesy Crocked Potatoes”.
Meanwhile, with neither of us having anything to do, we chatted with the owner guy. It used to be that we would be very uncomfortable being the only patrons in a dining establishment, but now we relish it (and it remained empty the entire meal). Anyway during the course of the evening, we found out that his daughter had attended MSU, and did work with the CIA (doing “something”), and how he came by the Hotel. The “newer places” up the road “do what they do” and “we are what we are”, and he seemed happy. I was not enthusiastic about his future (along with Escanaba's)
Eventually the pickles, salad, and soup arrived simultaneously with an apology because he said he talked too much – which was fine, because now the “experience” was taking the upper hand. The pickles were coated in tempura and really were quite good with the crunch of the batter offset by the acidity of the pickle. The soup and salad sat a bit as there were no tools at all on the table which was corrected by another visit and chat with Edward. Both were okay, the chowder was a bit on the starchy side but did have some pretty good taste (the other option was taco soup). The mains arrived, nicely done, with about four smallish filets of whitefish, with probably sysco fries, and my walleye the same although the “lightly breaded” was a bit understated. My "cheesy crocked potatoes" were just that, one of those little brown on top crocks, with a crust of (what else?) cheddar over mashed potatoes). an odd pairing, but hey, we were now in it for the experience.
Someplace along the way, a young man wandered in and had a glass of beer, and more conversation revealed he was from UofM so we informed him we were from down the road. Cheerful banter regarding football ensued. So it was good evening with a great combination of food and better conversation. The booths had a little slot where people left their business cards so we did the same. Archivists and retirees!!
Escanaba is sort of dying I think, the main road is not through town, and many business are shuttered and those that are there are not looking good.
Due to length of this half, we’ll bust it up into two posts. The Food over Experience edition to follow. In fact, there we did
DFD
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