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Chain...

As most readers know, I generally denigrate “chain” restaurants, much preferring an independently run restaurant which has more latitude in sourcing ingredients and creativity in preparation and presentation.  Chains, on the other hand strive for consistency (a surprising exception is recounted below) in menu and preparation throughout their various outlets. Ideally, an Outback in Indiana should be indistinguishable from an Outback in Wyoming.  Of course the kitchen staff affects this, but that’s the goal.  That is why chains send in kitchen teams to “train” them.  On the other hand, the challenge to the independent is to make me want to come back.

So it was with some interest that I noticed the August Consumer Reports Magazine (that paragon of defending your buck) contained an article called “Restaurant Roulette – We rate 102 of America’s biggest chains”.  Now we all know that CR delights in being iconoclastic, giving top ratings to some model of a vacuum cleaner that you’ve never heard of, much less being available in your area, while putting your cherished Hoover at the bottom.  Of course all of their findings are based on “impartial” surveys and testing and are completely objective.  Of course. 

Well, they stated that their criteria for rating the chains was based on four attributes:  taste, value, service, and mood (not defined), and reflected the experience of 47,565 readers who consumed 110,517 meals at the 102 chains.  As usual, they fleshed out the article with lot of background info and tips.  A couple that caught my eye:  “More Americans are ordering chain-restaurant food to go….order on line and pick up.  Even Morton’s has a “Prime to Go” menu”.  There's just something wrong with that!  And there was a “How to save” heading that contained even more gems, like: sniff out specials – deals and so on; Eat at the bar; Show your age; clip coupons; and Order to go – you can leave a smaller tip.  Atta boy Consumer Reports.

Anyway I am finally about to get to the point (amazing!!). Here are their top ten chains based on overall score in their big four categories:  Biaggi’s Ristorante Italiano; Black Angus Steakhouse; Bob Evans; Bravo Cucina Italiana; First Watch; J. Alexander’s; Le Peep; Elmer’s; and Fatz Eatz and Drinkz.  Now the feeder tends to keep his eyes open when traveling, and the ONLY one I have heard of is Bob Evans.  How about you?  And throughout the rest of the article other “chains” are mentioned – Quaker Steak and Lube; Cheddar’s Casual Café; Buca di Beppo; Mellow Mushroom; Claim Jumper…. and more.  I bet out of the 102 entries I have never seen nor heard of eighty of them.  Of course some of our “friends” are there, Chart House is at the bottom of the ratings for “Contemporary/traditional American”; Olive Garden is in the lower middle of Italian; Buffalo Wild Wings at the very bottom of Pub Style or Grill; (Texas Road House upper third); Cracker Barrel upper mid of “Family” (Friendly’s dead last).

So what really struck me was the tremendous variety of restaurants represented as “chains” that I never knew existed.  I suspect they are regional, maybe started as an independent (Famous Dave’s Barbeque), and with success decided to expand.  Who knows.. not sure when you become a “chain”..

I guess (the bigger) chains with their consistency can have their place under certain circumstances.  If you can find a dish you like (I have another friend who has a favorite at Olive Garden) the consistency of a national chain has an advantage.  Such as when you’re traveling, stopped for the night, and want to eat. Unless you have done research, you may not know of a good independent , and even if you do, it may be far from your motel,  and (despite reviews) it still may be a waste.  So if you like their Venetian Apricot Chicken, you find your Olive Garden and have a pretty good chance of being satisfied.  But when you’re home, exploring locally owned places is worthwhile.  They all want to make money of course, and chains do it by supplying average food with corporate recipes cranked out by trained employees.  The independents are willing to take the risk to create something special and bring you back.  Good on them.

An encouraging "chain" exception

And in that vein, a good friend told me the following story.. Being a transplanted St. Louisan like us, as far back as 1961, he became a devotee of Steak 'n Shake, a (now expanding) “chain” founded in Normal, Illinois in 1934. They coined the phrase“in sight, it must be right” and were known for their (Steak)burgers n' hand dipped Shakes. They also were the pioneer of shoestring fries as I recall. I wasn’t a huge fan, but they did make a pretty good shake and patty melt. Anyway, he is/was very partial to their chili. He recalls the original as: “you got a bowl of beans and chili sauce with a large dollop of beef chili in the center. Never mind the variants like chili mac or chili three ways etc.”; but on a recent pilgrimage to STL, he was disappointed to find that “the board room took over and morphed to what they (now) typically serve up and it is not that great” .  Then, on the return trip he chanced to find (with GPS help) an SnS just south of Louisville, and to his surprise the Chili was much better and very different from his STL experience. He thinks he may call the manager. I hope he does. Maybe another symptom of regional chains having more latitude..

Changing the Links

Based on a tipster’s report, I drove out to our local Applebee’s today.  Sure enough the place was loaded with equipment, men, and “stuff”

Huge effort.  So I noticed a little tent in their parking lot and drove up and a couple of young ladies (not “guys”) informed me that they are doing a total renovation, basically re-doing the front of the house, with a completely new dining room.  They gave me a little card for $5 off (on purchases of $25 or more) and I could come back Thursday.  I wouldn't know the difference because i have NEVER been in it.

I won’t but if I did I would be

DFD