Monday, November 29, 2010

Eastern Shore, Soul part One

Scenes for the Heart, food for the soul - part one of two.

We arrived in Easton after a relatively easy two hour drive from the digs. We checked into the Bartlett Pear Inn, being greeted by the gracious Innkeeper and shown to a comfortable second floor room overlooking quaint South Harrison Street with its historical homes. It was warm enough that we sat on the second story outdoor porch for a bit and watched the world go by, slowly.



Eventually we got DFL’d and went next door for lunch at Mason’s. We had not been there before but heard good things about it in the dining scene in Easton. We had reserved (through impersonal “open table”), although I thought it might be excessive to reserve for a Tuesday afternoon. Well, guess what? In spite it being 1:30 on a non-descript Tuesday afternoon, the place was pretty much full. We were greeted by a person in a startling outfit, and without being overly graphic, I wish I could have a photo of her spider net stockings - of which you could see lots of. Nuff said. And as for the reservation, fortunately, the technology worked, and our seating was confirmed. The restaurant is in an old Victorian house, and your entrance through the front porch reveals a dining space straight ahead, and another room to your left. Beyond that there is sort of a deli area with chocolates, wine bottles for sale on the walls, and a coffee bar. The walls are in bold colors with contemporary art prints; there are no carpets, so noise can be an issue. We were seated in at a two top on the lower level next to the coffee bar, not my favorite choice, but it was a window seat and I’m sure our presence brought people in the door. All the servers were dressed completely in black, and ours whizzed by dropping off the menu and wine list, and said she’d be back in a moment. Well, almost, but they were busy. We immediately looked at the wine list (travelling can develop a thirst). It’s a pretty nice list with lots of options, several half bottles, although I thought there weren’t very many choices for wine by the glass. Anyway we decided to start off the “vacation” with a glass of bubbly. So we ordered a split of Moët. It was delivered eventually (they were busy), poured nicely in flutes, so we sipped and turned to the menu. Champagne is such a nice thing…It was a good menu, with choices of cold or hot sandwiches, starters, and mains, which consisted mostly of salads (Cobb, Shrimp, Chicken, Caesar) and there were also offerings of heartier options like meat loaf and steak frites. Knowing we’d be having a dinner in the evening, we opted for lighter salads, with MFO taking the Grilled Marinated Beef Salad, and I chose the Grilled Tuna Salade Niçoise. When asked how I wanted the Tuna, I said seared (is there any other way), along with a glass of Angeline Pinot Noir. People watching was rewarding, with tables ranging from “old money” looking folks in tweedy coats (nicely DFL) and heavy jewelry, to a table of young people, one in a tee shirt, another in a short sleeve shirt with one of those knit caps like garage band musicians wear pulled around the ears that stayed affixed throughout the lunch. I think maybe because it was lunch, in sort of a “vital” setting it didn’t annoy me as much as it would have at dinner. Finally, our salads arrived, pleasing to the eye



As you can see the tuna was butterflied, enabling it to be just seared on the outside and coolly soft and moist inside. The greens and the other necessary ingredients for the Niçoise were just fine, although the haricot vertes were more like green beans. MFO’s salad was a bit “chewy”, but flavorful. We finished off the meal with a slice of bourbon pecan pie (a sucker dish for me) and a piece of (unremembered) cake. A cappuccino and coffee rounded out the lunch. In re-reading this, it may sound a bit negative (me? Negative?) but all in all, we did have a nice lunch, an eventually good conversation with our server, and it provided a good start to our respite in Easton. I would return, and maybe try for dinner, but not in the coffee shop. If you go, hold out for the dining room or porch if weather permits.

Following the lunch and after the ride to Tilghman Island we once again repaired to the room, read (and sipped) a bit, and prepared to DFD for a return visit to Scossa. We had such a wonderful lunch there earlier this year that we were eager to be there for dinner. It’s always somewhat hazardous returning someplace after an initial good experience, but it’s a mark of a good restaurant not to disappoint you. Despite my wishes that it weren’t so, I have to admit that I was disappointed in our return experience. Those damn expectations.. and what was really disappointing was, unfortunately, the food. On our last visit the food was the star and the good service and setting just heightened the experience. Hard to know why, maybe having a second “gourmet” meal in a day could be a factor, or the fact that it was that Tuesday evening before Thanksgiving, plus maybe we were a bit tired. The restaurant was not crowded, but by no means empty. I still really like the space and décor; it’s comforting and pleasing to the eye. Service throughout the evening was good. Water filled, things cleared, attentive without being intrusive. They did execute the drink test flawlessly, and the lemon twist was cleverly tied in a knot, the portion was hearty. We won’t recount the menu; it’s a nice one with good choices. They offer a Prix Fixe menu along with a la carte options. I ordered a starter of ($13) sautéed calamari and mussels in wine and faro, and the ($25.5) “Tuesday special” of Roast lamb shank with risotto parmigiana, while MFO took the ($37) PF option of Sautéed scallops & mushroom al balsamico and Veal loin scallopine with lemon & caper sauce. Nice bread was brought to the table, along with a second dry Manhattan, and life was good. I did notice in the interim that the “maitre d’” while attending our table also visited others. He was very astute about topping off the wine glasses no matter how full they were. I am of two minds on this subject. Is it the restaurant’s responsibility to mind the wine, or should they let the diners take care of it? I think I favor the latter approach, and although I have to “serve myself” as it were, I can drink at my own pace. Does the restaurateur take this as a sign of neglect? I don’t know. Of course this may eliminate the necessity for a second bottle. Who knows?

Our first courses arrived, mine a ring of mussels around the plate circling a little mound of the faro and calamari, and MFO’s the scallops with mushrooms. Hers was very nice, the scallops caramelized on the tops while still opaque inside, with the earthy balsamic mushrooms giving a good base. Calamari is a difficult dish. Battered and fried can be great, but sautéed requires a nice touch. Unfortunately the all too trite description of “rubber bands” kind of applied. The little rings were to say the least, “chewy”. The mussels while plump, tended to not hold together when forked, and I’ll leave it to the reader to envision the outcome. They were flavorful, but kind of unappetizing. I didn’t finish them. My glass of Nero D’Avola was fruity and good. After a bit our main courses arrived, and the veal piccata was tasty (although a bit toothsome according to MFO). My lamb shanks were large and well done, in a kind of demi glace sauce, falling off the bone and with good flavor.. The risotto however was heavy, gluey, and I’m sorry, reminded me of Macaroni and Cheese. Maybe that’s the way it should be.. I don’t know. Risotto is another sucker dish for me, it can be heavenly, but this was more earthly. I think there should be a third visit and there will be, but not with such high expectations next time.

So a new place visited, and another one re-visited. I would whole heartedly endorse a visit to both Mason’s and Scossa, and I will attend each again I hope. I think Scossa can do better, and I would like another experience at Mason’s. What a nice town with great options..

Editor’s note: In the interest of the reader’s time, I am going to devote another episode to our final meal in Easton. I thought being behind Mason’s and Scossa might imply some ranking, and nothing could be further from the truth. The dinner we had a Bartlett Pear Inn stands so far above two quite good meals it should be an entry on its own. And it will be..

Oh, and for all, we were

DFD

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