In Vino, Veritas

Not necessarily sure how that applies but sounds classy

One of the (too) many things I subscribe to (you don’t want to know), is Robert Parker’s “Wine Advocate”, the publication by the man who is pretty much acknowledged as the most respected wine “critic” in the world.   I suspect that a low “score” from him has ruined some wineries, if not vintages.  I rather favor his opinions and ratings over another source, the Wine Spectator.  I (perhaps foolishly) pretty much think Mr. Parker is more objective than the other publication who never met a wine they didn’t like.  Anyway, the man who has print copies in his basement  of Gourmet Magazine back to the middle nineties, also has the “Advocate” back many storage tubs as well..  I suspect MFO would be glad to see them freed up, as one might ask how much value a review of a (now) thirty year old bottle of wine has.  Although, there are some Bordeaux’s that have and can live that long.  Not every wine (hello most of California) is made to be consumed (read sold) within two years of vintage.

So anyway, my Issue 222 (closing date 12/30/15) arrived the other day, containing 124 pages of wine reviews of Northern California (part 2); 2014 Burgundy, and 2013 and 2014 Northern Rhône wines.  A lot of wine store shelf space is devoted to the former category so I decided to look at that report a little closer.  Back in my days of beginning to appreciate and learn about wine, maybe the late sixties sometime, I was at least familiar with most of the wineries in Napa and Sonoma, as well as other regions like the Central Coast, Monterey and so forth.  Names like Mondavi, Stags Leap, Krug, Phelps were easily grasped.   Well, in Issue 222 of TWA, there are over 250 wineries listed.  Two Hundred and Fifty!  How in the world can: a) you know about them, and b) how do they stay in business?   There are still some well known labels like Clos du Val, Duckhorn, Grgich Hills, Merryvale, and so on, but have you ever heard of Arcudi, Del Dotto, Legacy Oaks?  I could go on and on.  Many of these esoteric ones have only one vintage in the review.   Legacy gets 81 points for their Cabernet Sauvignon, price unknown.  He uses the word “competent” in the review.  Don’t think that can be very good, goes with the 81 points I assume.

The ratings of course vary widely with 100 very rare.  Plumpjack’s 2013 (cabernet) Reserve Estate rates a perfect score. The description of this wine reads: “…..”This is perfection, and an absolutely amazing effort.  The wine is dense purple with sweet tannin, oodles of blueberry and blackberry fruit caressed by toasty new oak and a full-bodied multi-dimensional mouthfeel, akin to a skyscraper in the mouth, but without any heaviness.  The finish goes on for 45+ seconds,  and the wine is super pure and majestic.  Truly a tour de force in Cabernet Sauvignon.  Kudos to Plumpjack.  Drink 2018 – 2040”.   Wow, you say, I’d like a glass of that!  Well, the estimated price is $245 the bottle.   And usually these super high end wines are very limited production and most likely sucked up by collectors with deep pockets before schlubs like us have a chance.  Still would be nice to taste however.  I think most likely he barrel tasted these things, but not sure.  And at $245, it is NOT the most expensive of Plumpjack’s offernings.  That would go to 2014 edition of the Reserve Estate at $300 the bottle (92 – 94 points).

Speaking of price, the most expensive bottle I found was the Ovid 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Loc. Cit. (that’s the name of the property) which tips the cash register at $350 for a bottle.  There were only three barrels made.  (<100 85="" 86="" a="" alifornia="" blanc="" blend="" cases="" coast="" end="" familiar="" font="" for="" from="" hess="" house="" many="" more="" nbsp="" north="" of="" on="" other="" our="" places="" points.="" points="" range="" red="" respectable="" sauvignon="" scale="" select="" selections="" six="" the="" them="" to="" treo="" use="" winemakers="" wines="" with="">

In the piece on the Northern Rhône’s, there is a 100 point 2014 Ermitage L’Ermite (a white, 100% Marsanne) for a mere $696, produced by that giant Michel Chapoutier.   He also says that one we should not miss and is still affordable “by mere mortals”  is the 2014 Hermitage Chante-Alouette (also 100% Marsanne) at $105.  Maybe a special occasion, if you can find it.

Price is not always synonymous with quality of course; sometimes it is driven by availability and other factors.

Anyway, it is all interesting reading.   Robert says that “2013 for many wineries in Napa and Sonoma has produced the finest wines I have tasted in 37 years”.  If you have a choice at your local wine dealer, you might steer in that direction.  Maybe get that Ovid selection..

There is a lot to learn about and try out there.  Have fun, and

DFD (and the wine)

PS the Tide Rolled...

PSS the "Fried Oyster" Saga will begin soon.  have to make sure the household insurance is up to date...