Sunday, July 7, 2013

Bon Jour


When I woke up this morning, I was not greeted by a friendly “Bon Jour!” and presented with a basket of croissants and other lovely pastries.

 
 


We had a relatively easy travel day yesterday, (reluctantly) leaving the barge in Tanlay at nine, arriving Paris at the Hotel Regina about noon, and a less than terrifying taxi drive to Charles de Gaulle, making our Air France flight around four, a LONG eight hour flight into the heat and humidity of Dulles, were met by our friend and boom! Here we are back to reality and Southern Maryland again.

We had a glorious trip through the northern part of Burgundy, through lovely French countryside



The food and wines were beyond description although I will try, and we saw some wonderful places.  Which, in the end proposed a problem for the Bottom Feeder.  Normally he would act like an engineer, yakking about things done serially, today we did this, drank that, tried these things, etc., but with the capriciousness of the internet connections (and the drain on time), I was pretty much unable to do my boring chronological accounting.  So I have a huge palette (or is that palate) to choose from:  Michelin Three Star dinner, Medieval towns and abbeys, cathedrals, forges, and so, so many good food experiences.   I think maybe what I will do is select some of the more memorable things and talk about them over the next few posts.

Today we’ll begin by maybe setting the backdrop for the whole tour to give you an idea of the “big picture”.  A term I much dislike, but there you are.

When you tell people you are going on a “barge” tour of the canals of France, many kind of roll their eyes, thinking of Spartan accommodations, plowing along on some stinking canal, eating things out of a tin.  NOTHING could be further from reality.  French Country Waterways has five routes that offer these tours through wine regions of France.  There’s a couple of trips through Burgundy, then there’s Champagne, Alsace, and the Loire Valley.  This was our third trip with them, having done the lower Burgundy and the Champagne trips prior to this one.  One always takes a risk in “going home again” fearing that the present experience will be colored by the previous ones.  Well, this one lived up and maybe surpassed the other two.

The “Barge” itself



Is quite long and divided into three major parts with cabins below, accommodating (in our case) 12 people.  There is that outside covered porch, then a “salon”



Which contains a sitting area and the all important bar (nicely stocked with premium liquors and aperitifs) and then behind that is the room where lunch and dinner are served



And behind that is a "kitchen" area



Which I suppose might properly be termed a galley.  But what comes out of that small area is truly amazing.  All done by the Chef, Tadek, who is a kitchen staff of one.  Each day lunch included four salads,



An entrée generally plated before us (glazing the Turbot)



And of course three cheeses (more to come on that).

Dinners (this Foie Gras at the Captain's dinner)



Which also included desserts



Always at least two wines (also more to come on that).
 
 

And as long time readers will know I often say that food is but one dimension, and others are supplied by the people you enjoy the meal with.  We were fortunate that we shared the voyage with five other couples that were a pleasure to meet and spend the week with.  Varied backgrounds and home ports (Australia, Washington State, California, Georgia, New York, etc.,) we all enjoyed finding out about each other and hopefully will touch base from time to time.

And we were further fortunate to have a wonderful crew to take care of us, steer the boat (not an easy task), get the bikes, clean the rooms, serve the food and tell us about it.  And the Captain, Matthew, was especially fun to be with.  He shows his British background with a great wit and has a tremendous knowledge about the wine, the places and so forth.

So in the days to come we’ll revisit some of the places like the Michelin Three Star, historical sites, vineyards, and food, food, food!

And of course you should have no doubts that we were all
DFD

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