Finally (well, almost) to the Barge!!

Much Text.. sorry I can't help it

 

Before we joined the group on Sunday to get to the barge, we did have two more food experiences worth noting. 

 

MFO did some research and found a highly regarded restaurant called Goumard within walking distance from the hotel that was occasionally referred to as “the best seafood restaurant in Paris”.  It carried no stars but may have once sported one. 

So after our kind of busy Saturday morning and a little nap at the hotel we got DFD’d and started for the restaurant which was on Rue Duphot just around the corner from the hotel.  Since I toted my suit for the "three star" meal, I of course donned it and MFO was quite elegantly turned out as well.  We regally approached the restaurant and made a grand entrance into the elegant reception area which was all marble and gilt.  And there, in front of us was a couple, the man dressed in shorts and sneakers, a backpack and a (collared) shirt that was not tucked in.  His companion wore whatever those things are called that come down just below the calf and maybe a blouse and sweater.  Quite the grouping..  us in our fancy duds and the other pair in what I would loosely call “tourist” clothing.  What's the deal? They were talking to the lady behind the desk who produced a menu which they perused at some length.  I thought I heard the word “take away” in there, but no, eventually to our surprise (and horror) they were led up the staircase toward the dining area.  Apparently DFD had no teeth in Paris either.

Finally we were taken upstairs as well, and seated on the far side of the restaurant.  Mercifully, our tourist friends were deposited in a corner table on the other side, quite a distance from us.  The room was quite elegant, high ceilings and elaborate chandeliers, which they describe as: “The authentic wooden-panels and its elegant stained-glassed conservatory, recently refurnished with style give an impression of cruising on board of a majestic Transatlantic liner”.  Almost immediately, we were brought a little amuse bouche of chopped shellfish in little pastry shells which were quite good.  It turned out that for whatever reason they didn’t offer cocktails so we had a glass of wine (which I didn’t record) while we considered the menu.  No surprise it was indeed heavily leaning toward seafood with many types of “les poissons” sole, swordfish, Turbot, monkfish, and also a large selection of shellfish.  They did nod toward land lubbers with one steak, veal, and chicken dish.  For a little chuckle, click on this link, look at the menu, and then toggle back and forth between English and Français (at the bottom of the page).  Interesting translations.. and how much more elegant in French.

Moving along toward ordering, I decided that King Oyster was duty bound to try some local varieties so ordered a half dozen of the Gillardeau number threes, and MFO decided on the crab and turnip salad.  For our entrees, she selected the swordfish and I thought what the hell, you may never be here again, and took the whole dover sole.  If in fact you looked at the menu you will see that the euros were mounting fast, and don’t even think about the “times one point three” to get to American currency.  At some point the Sommelier appeared and when we told him our purpose for the trip, he said we should have a Chablis, and recommended a 2007 Premier Cru Vaillions from Vincent Dauvissat.  It was to be the first of many bottles of Chablis on the trip.

While we were waiting we observed that many of the guests were having an iced “platter” of seafood, which was set on a little platform in the middle of the table for communal dining.  Bristling with crab legs, shells, and various other items, it reminded us of home a bit.  Except they weren’t fried!!  My oysters were quite briny,  more so than “ours”, but quite tasty.  The crab salad was “shredded” and the turnips were paper thin.  Lovely.  It should be noted that I did not take my camera so no pictures, just words.  Both the fish dishes were prepared perfectly, MFO likened her swordfish to veal, meaty and tender and my sole was delicate, completely boned, and cooked just past opaque.  The Chablis was a great pairing.

The Sommelier stopped by often and eventually we got around to talking about “Dressing For Dinner”.  He too lamented the couple in the corner, but said that in these times, they pretty much had to accommodate them, but tried to sort of “put them aside”.  He was a very nice guy, and obviously devoted to his wine.  He said his favorite Chablis was a 2008 Premier Cru Montee de Tonnerre, from François Raveneau.. to be sure to look for it, and wrote it on a card for us.

I sort of thought the restaurant was as was described in various places, once great, but now perhaps past its pinnacle.  Maybe in the past they wouldn’t have served shorts guy.

That marked the end of our Paris experience on our own, as we were to meet the “barge group” the next day at two at the Hotel Regina near the Louvre.  On our previous trips, we were less than happy with our “pre” time in Paris, but this time for whatever reason it was extremely enjoyable.  The Bistros/Cafes were pleasant, food was good, so civilized.

Anyway, another taxi ride brought us to the Hotel Regina, one of the premier hotels around the Tuileries.   Old world elegance and opulence, things done right, all about service  For instance, upon arriving in our taxi, a young man in a black uniform with white gloves unloaded the bags, and while holding the door for us said “Welcome to the Regina, Mr. and Mrs. Moody”.  MFO finally figured out that he must have read the bag tags when unloading them.

As part of the tour, the French Country Waterways people provided us with a coupon for a drink in the Bar.  Since we had nothing to eat so far, we needed some food, and asked the nice young lady (in a black uniform) if there was a menu available.  Of course Monsieur!.   And since we were also thirsty we ordered our kickoff cocktail, me a Hendricks Gin Martini (with a twist) and MFO her Sapphire Gimlet.  “Oui, Right Away”  Very pleasant.

Soon the drinks arrived

 

Followed by the Blini

 

 

 

 

And the Parma ham and green salad

 

 

 

 

I think you can imagine how good they were, and just to check consistency I am happy to report the second Martini was as good as the first. 

As the hour approached two o’clock we began speculating on who was a fellow traveler.  Fun.  Eventually the dozen chosen were rounded up, and we started a three hour drive through the country side to the barge.
Thanks for indulging the feeder’s little side trips before the main reason for the whole trip, but it was so enjoyable.  And we were looking forward to daily

DFD